Trend Watch

Fashion Off The Runway: Celebrating Street Style Photography

Fashion Photography

Dyanna Dawson and J. T. Tran

While the New York Times‘ Bill Cunningham was shooting chic man-on-the-street images back in the ’70s, street style photography really exploded in the late ’00s, and soon bloggers like The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman, Tommy Ton and Garance Doré became household names in the fashion world.

Capturing stylish urban denizens, street style blogs offered a sense of democratization in fashion, showing readers how trends played out in the real world, away from the hallowed runways.

Fashion Photography

Dyanna Dawson and J. T. Tran

In Street Fashion Photography: Taking Stylish Pictures on the Concrete Runway (published this month by Chronicle Books), the writers behind the Street Fashion Style blog provide tips and tricks for anyone hoping to shoot fashionistas on the fly, including tips on choosing the right camera and approaching subjects.

They also include suggestions on how to pose for those that hope to be captured by fashion’s new tastemakers, from a traditional head-on stance to more unique angles.

The book’s copious images—a selection of the authors’ finest shots from their website—illustrate the spirit and spontaneity that characterizes the best street style photos. Herewith, a preview of the tone…

The Store is Everywhere

The Store is Everywhere

Your Life in 2020 | Source: Frog

 

“I think PCs are going to be like trucks. Less people will need them.”

So said the late Steve Jobs, just after the debut of Apple’s first generation iPad, three years ago. He was right. Today, we inhabit what Jobs called the “post-PC era.” Sales of smartphones and tablet computers have surpassed sales of laptops and desktops, while earlier this year, social giant Facebook announced that, for the first time, it had more active mobile users (680 million) than desktop users.

What’s more, in her latest “Internet Trends” report, the legendary Mary Meeker, a former Wall Street technology analyst and general partner at Kleiner Perkins Caufield & Byers, reveals that global mobile traffic as a proportion of total Internet traffic recently surpassed 15 percent and is ramping at a rate of 1.5 times per year. These figures indicate that we are still early in the mobile computing cycle, with tremendous growth yet to come.

In fashion and apparel, the fastest growing e-commerce category (estimated to be worth $41 billion in the U.S. alone) and the second largest after consumer electronics, mobile commerce is still in its infancy, though smartphone and tablet sales are rising fast.

But already, the world is on the cusp of another major technology shift.

Driven by the rise of “wearables, drivables, flyables and scanables,” a new computing cycle is “coming on stronger and faster than typical,” says Meeker. In fact, network-connected cars, low-cost drones, the proliferation of digital sensors and scannable objects, and the emergence of wearable devices (like Nike’s FuelBand, Google Glass and Apple’s rumoured iWatch) are harbingers of what Meeker calls the era of “everywhere computing,” which will have far-ranging implications for the way we do almost everything in life — including the way we shop for fashion.

“Everywhere computing,” also called “pervasive” or “ubiquitous” computing, is the idea that, as computing devices become progressively smaller and more powerful, they will be embedded into almost everything — home appliances, cars, clothing, accessories and, ultimately, the human body itself — in such a way as to be unobtrusive and always available.

“Right now it’s still easy to separate our natural world (our furniture, clothes, personal objects, etcetera) from the computers in our lives (our phones, iPads, etcetera). But this will change. It will increasingly become impossible to distinguish these things. Computers are becoming embedded in everything — truly ubiquitous,” Mark Rolston, chief creative officer at product and service design company Frog, whose clients include Victoria’s Secret, Vogue Italia, Disney, Microsoft, MTV and Intel, tells BoF.

“Ubiquitous computing is technically already here, it’s just disguised as mobile computing because mobile devices are the most potent example of ubiquitous computing so far,” says James McQuivey, an analyst at Forrester and author of Digital Disruption. “Today, people say you carry a store in your pocket because you have a mobile phone. In the future, you will simply be in a store all the time.”

So what might this look like for fashion?

“Imagine I spot a really nice shirt, not in a store, but instead being worn by a stranger on the street,” says Rolston. “The shirt is essentially out in the wild, no longer associated with any retail source. I could potentially take a picture of it with my smartphone, or maybe even with my Google Glass. The picture would then be compared with the millions of shirts being sold online. When a match is found, it can be bought. All of this can happen in the course of life. I don’t stop to go shopping, but instead I find and purchase things in the context of their discovery.”

This means the entire world becomes a store in which you can instantly buy almost anything you see — that Kenzo sweatshirt you spot on the street, or the Victoria Beckham mini-dress that catches your eye at a cocktail party. It may sound like science fiction, but it’s actually only a few years away, says McQuivey, describing a similar scenario, in which consumers will be able to virtually try on and purchase new clothes and accessories everywhere they go.

“When you see someone on the street wearing something you want to try on, you’ll be able to simply capture the image of the person. The algorithms available to you will automatically identify the clothes and accessories that person is wearing and offer to create an image of you in those clothes [assembled] from 3-D models of your body that are updated every morning when your [network-enabled weighing scale] and smart bathroom mirror assess whether you have gained or lost weight and where,” says McQuivey.

“You can then speak a command to order that item, or have it held for you at a nearby store — and get turn-by-turn directions to that store in the moment, or save them for later, when you have time in your calendar, something the service will look for and proactively offer to hold,” he continues. “That’s just one of a thousand variations on that theme, any example of which seems like a dream [today], but will be very common by 2020.”

Rolston concurs: “William Gibson said this best: ‘The future is already here — it’s just not very evenly distributed.’ What this means is much of this is already happening right now.”

Indeed, New York-based social commerce start-up The Fancy — which is turning over about $100,000 a day, according to recent figures provided by founder Joseph Einhorn — is already experimenting with early stage “glassware” for Google’s internet-connected eyewear that lets users find and buy products that match the colors they see. “That’s a good start, but you can imagine how this can get even better with image recognition and image differencing technologies to offer more explicit matches,” commented Einhorn when the app was released.

When the store is everywhere, traditional retail locations “become less about ‘This is where the inventory is and where we take your money’ and more about creating an enjoyable, informative and personal experience,” says Rolston. “Physical stores become showpieces rather than inventory warehouses. It means fewer, splashier, higher-impact stores,” McQuivey adds.

But for physical retailers and traditional e-tailers alike, owning the primary interface with customers — and the relationship that flows from it — is immensely valuable. What becomes of this relationship when commerce is radically decentralized and the store is everywhere?

“The real question is not whether this will happen or even when, but who will own it,” says McQuivey.

“Clearly Google wants to own this and is building the devices and software services that will enable it. Amazon may even want to own it, as it sells so many of the products in question,” he continues.

“But what about the fashion brands themselves? Will Yves Saint Laurent or Louis Vuitton stand by and let Google become the holder of the most important relationship in the history of their industry? I imagine not.”

At present, however, even the most well-funded fashion brands lack the capabilities to tackle the threats and opportunities presented by “everywhere computing.”

So what should they do?

First, fashion brands and retailers must create more meaningful partnerships with major technology players like Google and Amazon. Then, within the framework of these partnerships, they must develop environments in which their retail teams can exchange ideas and work closely with technologists. This may mean launching special innovation groups or joint ventures. Undoubtedly, companies will also need to acquire new talent with a strong feel for what the collision of fashion, retail and technology will make possible.

As Marc Andreessen, one of Silicon Valley’s most highly respected entrepreneurs and investors, says in his seminal essay Why Software Is Eating The World, “we are in the middle of a dramatic and broad technological and economic shift in which software companies are poised to take over large swathes of the economy. More and more major businesses and industries are being run on software and delivered as online services — from movies to agriculture to national defense.”

Some of these are tech-driven start-ups, while others are established players who have embraced software-based models. But, in short, all major companies may soon be technology companies — including fashion companies.

Stay tuned.

(source: http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/07/the-store-is-everywhere-frog-forrester-google-nike-apple-steve-jobs-the-fancy-joe-einhorn.html)

‘Gatsby’ Inspires Flapper Fashions

Flapper Fashion

(Leah Hogsten | The Salt Lake Tribune) Jennifer Booth, left, and Katie Kelsey, get a 1920s-inspired look with lace dresses, vintage jewelry and headbands.

The opulence of the 1920s roars onto the silver screen with Friday’s opening of “The Great Gatsby.”

Baz Luhrmann’s adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s literary classic features an A-list cast (Leonardo DiCaprio, Carey Mulligan, Tobey Maguire) and soundtrack (Jay-Z, Beyoncé, Florence + The Machine).

But it’s the lineup of costume collaborations that is creating “flapper fever” in the fashion world. Names such as Miuccia Prada, Tiffany & Co. and Oscar-winning costume designer Catherine Martin have the fashion world bursting with anticipation.

“People have always been enamored with the Roaring ’20s; it was such a glamorous and prosperous time in America,” says Kyong An Millar, owner of Koo De Ker boutique in Salt Lake City. “I think everyone [in the fashion world] has been eagerly awaiting this film since we heard of production.”

Millar said during 1920s, some of fashion’s most powerful players entered the stage, and prominent designers such as Chanel and Schiaparelli changed the way the world viewed and experienced style.

Jennifer Booth, local fashion blogger (www.frayed-threads.com), explains that the ’20s introduced sex appeal into fashion as women said goodbye to their restrictive clothing and corsets. The flapper girl was introduced as spunky; independent women started wearing loose drop-waist dresses to hide their curves. They hiked their hemlines above the knees and covered their legs in fishnets and patterned tights instead of traditional stockings.

Feathered headbands, bell-shaped cloche hats, layers of long pearl necklaces and bold costume jewelry were typical accessories. Women bobbed their hair, wore faces full of makeup and used the first tube lipsticks to make their lips bold and dark.

Women still love the ’20s fashion and want to be like the graceful Daisy Buchanan in “The Great Gatsby,” Millar said. “What girl wouldn’t want to wear a sparkly frock, some great heels and go dancing till dawn?”

As the film’s release date approached, Millar said she has noticed more jeweled tops, feathers, fringe and sequins appear. “It’s such a unique look that has staying power.”

Booth agreed, adding that lace dresses, pearls, statement headbands and embellished cloche hats are ’20s-inspired trends that will take off during the next few seasons. They’re easily modernized, versatile for year-round wear and flatter practically everyone without too much work, she said.

The key to wearing this retro look, said Booth, is to take one vintage aspect and update it with modern accessories and trends. Try a drop waist-dress with gladiator sandals; a feathered headband with a sexy sequin skirt and heels; or layers of pearls with a classic little black dress.

For high style and glamour, start with pearls, as they are timeless and always a classic, says Julie Peterson, store director at Tiffany & Co. Plus, they go with everything from a simple tee to an elegant evening gown.

For an inspired look, add more pearls —you can never have too many pearls — layered with silver chains and an Art Deco piece, such as an onyx pendant. Adding darker stones gives a visual pop, and a contemporary style is achieved by mixing the two contrasts.

(source)

Bill Cunningham New York

One of my biggest fashion inspirations is Bill Cunningham, the famed fashion photographer. He not only is extremely talented at what he does, but his simple outlook on life is so refreshing and sweet. You have to love this man!

A delicate, funny and often poignant documentary portrait of bicycle-riding octogenarian Bill Cunningham, the beloved New York Times style photographer who is world famous for his weekly “On the Street” column.

Bill Cunningham

William J. Cunningham (born 1929) is a fashion photographer for The New York Times, known for his candid  street photography.

Bill dropped out of Harvard University in 1948 and moved to New York, where he initially worked in advertising. Not long after, he quit his job and struck out on his own, making hats under the name “William J.” After being drafted and serving a tour in the U.S. Army, he returned to New York and got a job writing for the Chicago Tribune. During his years as a writer, he contributed significantly to fashion journalism, introducing American audiences to Azzedine Alaia and Jean-Paul Gaultier. While working at the Tribune and at Women’s Wear Daily, he began taking photographs of fashion on the streets of New York. As the result of a chance photograph of Greta Garbo, he published a group of his impromptu pictures in the Times in December 1978, which soon became a regular series. His editor, Arthur Gelb, has called these photographs “a turning point for the Times, because it was the first time the paper had run pictures of well-known people without getting their permission.”

Bill photographs people and the passing scene in the streets of Manhattan every day. Most of his pictures, he has said, are never published. Designer Oscar de la Renta has said, “More than anyone else in the city, he has the whole visual history of the last 40 or 50 years of New York. It’s the total scope of fashion in the life of New York.” Though he has made a career out of unexpected photographs of celebrities, socialites, and fashion personalities, many in those categories value his company. According to David Rockefeller, Brooke Astor asked he be invited to her 100th birthday party, the only member of the media so honored.

In 2008 he was awarded the title chevalier dans l’ordre des Arts et des Lettres by the French Ministry of Culture. (Bio courtesy of Wikipedia)

See Bill’s On The Street slideshow on The New York Times

See a New York Magazine slideshow of Bill’s amazing work as a milliner in the 1950s

Read a 2009 article about Bill in The New Yorker

Finding the perfect holiday dress.

The holiday season is upon us and with Christmas and New Year’s Eve right around the corner, it’s important to hunt down that perfect dress.

Here’s some tips on how to look your best this holiday season:

Analili-Miami-Designer-Fashion-Coco-Dress

Click to shop the Analili “Coco” dress for the upcoming Holiday season.

  1. Be careful not to show too much. Balancing an outfit is important, if you are showing your legs, make sure to cover up on top. With a short dress, you can also wear a black tight to cover up your legs.
  2. Don’t dress like a Christmas Tree. If you’re wearing a dress with a lot of bling, tone down the accessories.
  3. You can’t go wrong with holiday red. A red dress and necklace is festive and chic.
  4. Try transitioning a look for office to party. By wearing a jacket, you can make pieces more conservative.
  5. Sparkles are great to ring in the new year. Bling, shimmer, and open back dresses are perfect for the holiday season.
  6. Embrace velvet. Velvet is appropriate for the holidays and also very rich-textured.
  7. Black skinny pants and pencil skirts are great if you’re not a dress person. Both can be dressy and conservative if you don’t want to wear a dress.
  8. Don’t break the bank! Buy a holiday look that you can also wear throughout the year.

 

Green Goes Deep For Fashion In Berlin

Germany’s capital is a wellspring of fashion labels producing eco-friendly attire.

Clothes and shows alike have taken shape in the studio of eco-fashionista Magdalena Schaffrin.

A new approach to design is taking root in Berlin, and it has nothing to do with all the tech startups that have set up shop over the past few years. The city’s fashion scene–which ascended to the worldwide stage in 2007 with the launch of Berlin Fashion Week–is increasingly being defined by a growing cadre of eco-designers: more than 100 labels that use organically produced, ethically harvested, and recycled materials for their garments. Both avant-garde and green, the shift represents the convergence of multiple threads of German heritage and culture. It’s also one of the fastest-growing segments in the $3 trillion clothing industry.

As trends go, Berlin came by this one honestly. Designer and fashion-show organizer Magdalena Schaffrin attributes the city’s place at the epicenter of sustainable fashion to a myriad of factors: There are eight fashion schools in the area; Berliners harbor a decades-old appreciation for all things green; the city’s high rate of unemployment encourages entrepreneurship; rent is cheap. Those traits coalesced to facilitate a subindustry that Tanja Muehlhans, who works with the Berlin senate as a strategist for creative industries, thinks could account for 10% of annual fashion sales within 10 years.

“Sustainability is a megatrend in fashion,” says Peder Michael Pruzan-Jorgensen, a VP at BSR, a San Francisco-based firm that helps businesses create sustainable strategies. “There are few brands not considering it. That was not the case 10 years ago.” It certainly was not: According to the not-for-profit Textile Exchange, the global organic cotton market grew from $240 million in 2002 to $5.16 billion in 2010.

If Schaffrin and her peers stay their course, that figure will continue to rise. Schaffrin runs the Ethical Fashion Show and Green Showroom events during Berlin Fashion Week, giving exposure to sustainable labels from around the world. She says that buyers from the U.S. and Japan were considerably active during BFW in July, and expects as much enthusiasm for this January’s upcoming gathering. “It’s a fashion movement,” she explains, “not a fashion moment.”

(original post)

Iconic Moments in Film that Changed Women’s Fashion

In addition to being one of Woody Allen’s best films, “Annie Hall” also changed women’s fashion. When Diane Keaton donned a casual, menswear-inspired look, stylistas of ’77 shouted, “chic!”

“Flashdance” may not be a masterpiece, but this fan favorite made Jennifer Beals’ leg warmers, leotards and oversized sweatshirts become a definitive look of the ’80s.

As Eliza Dolittle in “My Fair Lady,” Audrey Hepburn’s costumes were amazing — they certainly don’t make hats like they used to — but they still don’t compare to the simple elegance of her black sheath dress and bejeweled up-do in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.”

Marilyn Monroe never hit the big screen without looking sensational, but her white dress in “The Seven Year Itch” might be the single most iconic fashion piece in film’s history.

Love it or hate it, Carrie Bradshaw’s style is all her own. Her wedding dress in the first “Sex and the City” movie, designed by Vivienne Westwood (not pictured here), sold out in less than a day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Make ‘em different: Bridesmaid dress trends for 2012

Bridesmaids have the main duty of making sure the bride looks perfect and is calm on that big day, as they are some of the most important people in a bride’s life. When it comes to bridesmaid fashion, why shouldn’t bridesmaids look great too?

In the past, a bride picked one dress for all of the closest girls in her life. This led to many bridesmaids feeling uncomfortable while having to wear an unflattering dress. Whether it was due to an unfortunate color or an uncomplimentary cut, bridesmaids were commonly known to never put the dress on again. Now that it is 2012, all of that is changing.

What’s trending?

A few trends are emerging for bridesmaid dresses that will make it easier for everyone to feel and look great on that special person’s big day. Variations in color and style are becoming more and more popular as brides are realizing a happier bridesmaid equals a happier wedding.

Kayse Carter, owner of local bridal shop Pure Bridal, shares trends she has seen since opening her store earlier this year.

“A lot of girls are coming in who pick the color but leave the style decision up to each bridesmaid,” Carter said, “Strapped dresses work for busty girls and a tighter style for a littler girl.”

There is nothing wrong with wanting to look coordinated, but there is no harm in changing up the style to allow for bridesmaids’ unique styles to shine through.

Carter said, “Girls think having different styled dresses adds a little flare to their bridal party but usually keep a set color.”

Keeping a set color or applying other simple rules such as length or strap type is a great way to let bridesmaids have some reign while keeping the bride comfortable with their decisions. Also, if uniformity is a priority, using the same accessories, shoes or hairstyle can be a great alternative to having the same dress.

Big spender

Since being a bridesmaid means spending the money, brides are realizing that choosing a dress that can be worn again is a big plus. Designers are also finding more ways to make dresses functional for work and even other types of parties.

Carter shared that Pure Bridal aims to choose dresses from the hundreds of styles at the market that can be worn again.

She said Pure Bridal is “not the place for a dress that you will put on once and never want to wear again.”

(by Melanie Anderson – view original post here)

Tangerine Tango: Pantone’s color of the year in fashion.

The color of 2012 is a citrus-red hue that will give your weary eyes a break from all of those neutrals. Tangerine Tango, Pantone’s 2012 color of the year, was selected because, “there’s the element of encouragement with orange, it’s building on the ideas of courage and action, that we want to move on to better things. I think it would be a disservice to go with a relaxed, soothing color now,” Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, told the Associated Press.

The Pantone color of the year — which, last year, was a bright pink shade called Honeysuckle — is an annual influence on fashion and design. Tangerine Tango has already begun to pop up in fashion and cosmetics, with a strong showing in New York’s fashion week this fall. The bright orange is not an especially tricky color to wear, but it’s also not universally flattering — especially when it comes to cosmetics. Can you picture Tangerine Tango-hued eyeshadow? Pantone can.

By Maura Judkis

Are You A Lolita?

Thirteen-year-old blogging sensations are just the beginning. For Spring, designers kicked their youth obsession up a notch by indulging in some Lolita fantasies. Christopher Kane drew inspiration directly from the Kubrick movie for his sweet gingham baby-doll dresses, and Stella McCartney’s off-the-shoulder ruffled blouse and Moschino Cheap & Chic’s retro two-piece and floppy sun hat might also have been plucked directly from the film’s costume department. At Prada, meanwhile, itty-bitty pinafores were paired with pigtails, red lips, and plastic shades—the only thing missing was a cherry lollipop.

Tell us whether or not you’ll be flaunting the nymphet look….

- Romney Leader (style.com)

In full bloomer at Betsey Johnson.lolita-chanellolita-christopher-kanelolita-alexander-wanglolita-karen-walkerlolita-louise-goldinlolita-d&glolita-luellalolita-millylolita-marc-jacobslolita-miu-miulolita-stella-mccartneylolita-peter-somlolita-prada

Why Round Sunglasses? A Style Investigation

Suddenly round sunglasses are the look of the summer…

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Why Round Sunglasses? A Style Investigation

Fine Points: A Sleight of Hand With a Bit of String

The 1970s were not kind to macramé, but now designers have brought it back in a modern way this summer.

Continued here:
Fine Points: A Sleight of Hand With a Bit of String

Spring 09 Trend Report – Marrakesh Express

Ali Baba pants at Ralph Lauren, djellabas at Gucci, turbans everywhere from Dries Van Noten to Paul Smith—the Spring runways were as shimmering and vibrant as a Moroccan souk. And there were as many slouchy, sexy silk jumpsuits as there are stars in an Arabian night sky… Here’s some looks from the shows…

gucci-s09 diane-von-furstenburg-s09
max-azria-s09 Tony Cohen Spring-Summer 2009 NY 09/08/08
emanuel_ungaro-s09 Phillip-Lim-s09
jean_paul_gaultier-s09 matthew-williamson-s09

The Hamptons in Flip-Flops

Low-key and beachy is the theme this year, but you’ll still need a fat wallet.

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The Hamptons in Flip-Flops

Noticed: It Works For Us

COCO CHANEL, who is the subject of a new French biopic starring Audrey Tautou, had an aversion to frills. “A woman is always overdressed and never sufficiently elegant,” she once said of turn-of-the-century fashion, which favored impossible layers of lacy frippery. She believed that simple well-tailored pieces borrowed both literally and in spirit from her companions’ closets made for a more sophisticated, modern look; and a century later, stylish women seem to feel the same way. From boyfriend blazers to grandpa cardigans to this season’s return of the pantsuit, women are filching from men’s wardrobes.

“I just feel more comfortable in a jacket and trousers,” said the stylist Anastasia Barbieri, who was one of many women wearing menswear looks during the Paris fashion shows earlier this year. Hers, an Yves Saint Laurent suit, right.

Chalk it up, if you will, to the current economic climate. It has been argued that menswear dressing tends to gain popularity during recessionary periods, when classic, structured pieces convey a kind of elegant fortitude.

“There’s a mood that comes with that kind of dressing,” said Scott Sternberg, who designs menswear for women under the label Boy by Band of Outsiders. “It feels protective, safe. A beautiful jacket is like a cocoon, and yet it lends a certain confidence.” But Mr. Sternberg is quick to point out that the style is not a passing fad for his customers. As he explains, these are women who, long before menswear-inspired brands like Boy and the Row came along, headed straight for the men’s departments and bought the XS sizes.

“It’s similar to vintage shopping,” he said. “There’s a sense of ingenuity that comes with wearing something not necessarily meant for you. It’s like a badge of honor for these women. They don’t want a waistcoat made into a dress with a ruffly collar. They want these basic pieces so when they get up in the morning, they can put themselves together.”

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Noticed: It Works For Us

women-are-filching-from-mens-wardrobes

Fall Trends: You’ll Still Be Wearing Leggings

Gucci. If there was any doubt that we are in the midst of an eighties moment, the longevity of leggings has cleared that right up. Every runway saw a pair or three…

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Fall Trends: You’ll Still Be Wearing Leggings

Fall Trends: Velvet for Adults

Velvet is growing up this fall. It’s no longer a little-girl fabric, nor prissy and prim. Instead, you’ll wear sophisticated looks that are classic, soft, and feminine with a hint of toughness…

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Fall Trends: Velvet for Adults

Fall Trends: The Boyfriend Jacket Is Back

The news in jackets this fall? Size is everything. The masculine, oversize boyfriend blazer has returned from the eighties…

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Fall Trends: The Boyfriend Jacket Is Back