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Storyline behind the PET:cell Brand

Childhood inspiration

The year is 1980, and in a home-based workshop a 5-year old Tonya O’Hara is watching her dad spending hours painstakingly repairing the broken components of malfunctioned television sets. This genetic disposition was the seed for a long-life fascination with the meticulous and methodical arranging of components…

Career

Fast-forward to 1998 and having obtained a HND in Jewellery Design at the Birmingham School of Jewellery and a BA Honours Degree in Jewellery Design at Loughborough University, the dream of setting up a business was to be put on hold in favour of a funds-building exercise – this exercise was to last for 8 years. The most lucrative option at the time was teaching in secondary schools however it was essential that she returned to the true fulfilment of her grass-roots…

Artist Statement

With a strong philosophical outlook, the collection has been based upon a storyline inspired by an urban philosopher’s vision of hope. Having had a lifelong fascination with the complexities of microscopic organisms and cells, and working with her initial storyline Tonya has constructed and grown small pockets of this microscopic world, which would otherwise be unseen to the naked eye. Working through the medium of PET plastic (recycled bottles) she has developed several unique techniques to capture the delicate qualities of her subject matter. Always present is an element of fragility which is contradicted by the durability of the materials used. With a desire to inspire society to apply creativity and innovation to all aspects of life, these are small reminders that one person’s waste is another person’s treasure.

Storyline behind the PET:cell Brand

Deep within the dark abyss the humble PET bottle yearned for an escape, to be transformed once more…to know love and be intimately connected. Unbeknown to the bottle, lady Gaia was to reclaim her earth and through a cataclysm, peace and harmony was finally to be restored. A majestic shimmering door appeared and several children slipped through the gateway to another dimension. Later to be returned as children of a renewal, as the scallywags of womankind, with creative ingenuity they used their artistry to transform the dullest of resources into objects of intrigue. And so the humble PET bottle was metamorphosed into a beautiful, aesthetic wearable, once more to be intimately connected to womankind. From one pet cell to another, beauty and intrigue was born…

Processed and Techniques

Working through the medium of PET plastic, drinks bottles are broken down into workable sheets of material for further use. Each individual detail is cut by hand and finished using heat forming processes. Heat forming is also used to form the band of the ring. A patination technique has been developed for the base of the main detail and the rivets used have been especially developed using a discreet technique which enables the product to retain full transparency. The feathers are joined to the main detail of the ring by silver crimps.

The Range

The range has been built around a strong collection of finger adornments which incorporate the use of sculptured feathers, complete with complimentary bangles and earrings. With names like “Jelly Chandelier” (earrings), “Tarantula” (pheasant-feather ring) and “Cellulose” (bangle) you can’t help but be drawn in by intrigue…

Stockist

Within a month of its conception the PET:cell range is already available in London’s cutting-edge and fashion-forward retailer Junky Styling – www.junkystyling.co.uk – renowned for its innovative recycling of clothing garments.

06

12 2010

Music & Fashion: Ali Hewson

Edun’s Ali Hewson is famous for being Bono’s wife, yes, but also for being a designer bent on raising consumer consciousness. Her latest T-shirt project is bringing economic independence to farmers in a Uganda devastated by civil war.

It had rained a few days before I arrived in Gulu, a rough-and-tumble city of nearly 150,000 in war-torn northern Uganda. So the fiery red clay dust, normally so thick in the air, was only starting to kick up as we bounced through bucket-deep potholes out into the bush, toward the village of Amilobo, about an hour away from Gulu’s center. Our party of 10 was on its way to meet a small collective of cotton farmers led by a 37-year-old woman named Aweko Joska. Stuffed into a battered jeep and van were me and another print journalist; a documentary crew; Ali Hewson; and a few staffers from the Conservation Cotton Initiative (CCI), a joint effort of the nonprofit Invisible Children and Edun Live, the T-shirt-manufacturing arm of the Hewsons’ fashion label, Edun.

Like an eco–American Apparel, minus the jailbait marketing campaign, Edun Live is taking 100 percent organic cotton, farmed by people like Joska, and turning it into ­T-shirts in a green factory in Uganda’s capital city of Kampala. Then it wholesales the blank shirts to bands (who sell them at concerts), clothing companies, and anyone else who asks. Since its founding in 2007, Edun Live has produced 700,000 African-made ­T-shirts. It’s what Hewson calls a “100 percent African grow-to-sew initiative.”

Joska’s collective, made up of extended family and neighbors, from teenagers to great-grandmothers, joined CCI last year—and in the next two years, CCI hopes to more than quadruple its number of affiliate farmers, from the current 1,097 to 8,000. The way it works is that the Ugandan government gives CCI organic cottonseed, which the group then distributes to its collectives. CCI also gives its farmers oxen to plow ancestral fields gone fallow during the country’s long-running civil war; support from agronomists; and a guaranteed local buyer, CCI itself, for every last cotton ball that can be plucked from those sticky, unforgiving stems. For all this, CCI is pretty small, with a core staff of seven, plus 14 satellite employees and farm coordinators working out of a three-bedroom house with unreliable plumbing in Gulu.

When we arrived at Joska’s village—late, as is so often the case when you’re traveling in the bush—she and her fellow farmers cheered, clapped, and ululated. Six months pregnant with her eighth child, Joska led us to a spreading shade tree, where we settled next to a cow nursing its tiny calf. There, one by one, the farmers explained, graciously, that this season they’d need more seed, and ­sooner, if they were to prepare for the unpredictable rainfalls. More oxen were required, too, because the farmers wanted to cultivate as much field as possible. And finally, as important as anything else, they asked for encouragement. After all the chaos and mistrust sown by internecine warfare, reminders of contracts signed and promises made count for a lot in Uganda.

Despite the challenges, Joska’s group, and others are like it, is beginning to thrive. The first harvest from her own one-acre plot netted 700,000 shillings, or about $350, which is close to the average per capita income in Uganda. (CCI collectives share resources and training but each member owns his or her own land.) The money allowed Joska to celebrate Christmas with her family for the first time since Uganda’s civil war began, more than 20 years ago, and to send her eldest daughter, Gloria, 19, to a good boarding school.

And next year, the money may be even better. CCI plans to put two cotton gins in the countryside, which means the farmers themselves will be able to separate the fiber from the seed. By ginning their own cotton, Joska and her group not only don’t have to find someone else to do it, but they get to keep—and sell—the by-products of the process: cottonseed oil and seedcake. The only stipulation CCI makes is that the farmers must keep everything organic, which in Uganda isn’t much of a problem, perhaps sadly. Due to a historic lack of resources, farmers have never been able to afford pesticides. Ugandan cotton, says CCI Program Director Claude Auberson, is “organic by default.”

When Bono and Ali Hewson first started Edun, in 2005, they’d planned to produce all of the label’s upscale denim and separates in Africa. (Trade for aid has long been Bono’s stance, one he’s put into practice in other business endeavors, such as Product [RED].) But local skill levels and unreliable distribution made manufacturing a more sophisticated line on the continent often impossible. That’s when the couple hit upon the idea of making something more basic: a T-shirt. The beauty of it, Hewson says, is that the whole shebang—farming the cotton, then processing, spinning, dyeing, and sewing it—can be done locally, allowing Ugandans to keep more of the profit. Hewson’s dream is to revive an entire industry, but that won’t happen overnight. In the 1970s, cotton accounted for 25 percent of Uganda’s exports (and 40 percent of its export earnings); now it’s 4 percent.

Dressed in a rumpled black cotton skirt and bejeweled flip-flops, Hewson is no stranger to the bush, having made several other trips on behalf of Edun to Kenya and Lesotho. Her thrill at meeting Joska and her family is palpable as she hands out hippie-mom purse snacks (gluten-free seed paste and dried fruit, anyone?). “Now that CCI is really in development,” the 49-year-old Hewson says, “it’s so exciting. We knew we’d picked the right place here—the cotton industry was once so strong.”

To fully appreciate the wonder of harvesting a simple cotton crop in Uganda, you have to look into the country’s past. Practically from its beginnings, when Uganda declared its independence from Great Britain in 1962, the East African country has been beset by ethnic and political strife. President Idi Amin’s murderous reign in the 1970s turned into outright civil war in the 1980s, as tensions between the disenfranchised Acholis in the north (Joska’s people) and the more politically entrenched, wealthier tribes of the south exploded. During this period, labor-intensive cotton farming all but died. But mass poverty was just a harbinger of the misery to come.

In 1988, a messianic Christian warlord named Joseph Kony started a campaign to overthrow the government with a guerrilla group he named the Lord’s Resistance Army. Speaking in tongues, occasionally dressing in drag, and with a harem of ­60-plus teenage wives, Kony conscripted anywhere from 25,000 to 66,000 children into the LRA, according to the Christian relief organization World Vision International. By addicting his young charges to a mixture of cocaine, heroin, and gunpowder, Kony effectively made it nearly impossible for them to return home. Kony—who’s been on the run since 2008, when he refused to sign a peace agreement and neighboring countries joined with the Ugandan Army to hunt him down—also forced the child soldiers to kill, rape, and mutilate their friends and families.

Moreover, in 1996 the government forced more than 1.5 million people into refugee camps, ostensibly to protect them and to smoke out LRA collaborators. Inside the virtually unsupervised camps, LRA kidnappings continued, and rape, malnutrition, and disease were rampant.

Which brings us back to Joska. She was one of these unfortunate refugees, and during the decade she and her family were in camps, they couldn’t work their land, leaving them dependent on handouts for survival. (Perhaps it’s obvious, or incidental in this horror show, but she also couldn’t send her children to school: The education system had nearly collapsed.)

In 2006, the camps finally began to close, and Joska and millions like her slowly made their way back home. “Everywhere I’ve been in Africa, I’ve been blown away by the people’s willingness to work hard, feed themselves, and educate their children,” Hewson says as we’re driving away from the compound. “Coming here, seeing the people, their children, their resilience—it’s inspiring. Africa has been such a huge part of us for so many years. To see this project now, really on its way, well…it’s huge.” She pauses pensively, but only for a moment.

“It’s only the beginning. People say fashion is frivolous, but in its own way, it can change people’s lives.”

By Alexandra Marshall (elle.com)

03

09 2010

Louise Bourgeois, Influential Sculptor, Passes at 98

Louise BourgeoisLouise Bourgeois, the French-born American artist who gained fame only late in a long career, when her psychologically charged abstract sculptures, drawings and prints had a galvanizing effect on the work of younger artists, particularly women, died on Monday in Manhattan, where she lived. She was 98.

The cause was a heart attack, said Wendy Williams, managing director of the Louise Bourgeois Studio.

Ms. Bourgeois’s sculptures in wood, steel, stone and cast rubber, often organic in form and sexually explicit, emotionally aggressive yet witty, covered many stylistic bases. But from first to last they shared a set of repeated themes centered on the human body and its need for nurture and protection in a frightening world.

Protection often translated into images of shelter or home. A gouged lump of cast bronze, for example, suggested an animal’s lair. A tablelike wooden structure with thin, stiltlike legs resembled a house ever threatening to topple. Her series of “Cells” from the early 1990s — installations of old doors, windows, steel fencing and found objects — were meant to be evocations of her childhood, which she claimed as the psychic source of her art.

But it was her images of the body itself, sensual but grotesque, fragmented, often sexually ambiguous, that proved especially memorable. In some cases the body took the abstract form of an upright wooden pole, pierced by a few holes and stuck with nails; in others it appeared as a pair of women’s hands realistically carved in marble and lying, palms open, on a massive stone base.

Louise Bourgeois - Nature StudyAmong her most familiar sculptures was the much-exhibited “Nature Study” (1984), a headless sphinx with powerful claws and multiple breasts. Perhaps the most provocative was “Fillette” (1968), a large, detached latex phallus. Ms. Bourgeois can be seen carrying this object, nonchalantly tucked under one arm, in a portrait by the photographer Robert Mapplethorpe taken for the catalog of her 1982 retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art. (In the catalog, the Mapplethorpe picture is cropped to show only the artist’s smiling face.)

That retrospective brought Ms. Bourgeois, in her early 70s, the critical and popular acclaim that had long eluded her. In 1993 she represented the United States in the Venice Biennale. In an art world where women had been treated as second-class citizens and were discouraged from dealing with overtly sexual subject matter, she quickly assumed an emblematic presence. Her work was read by many as an assertive feminist statement, her career as an example of perseverance in the face of neglect.

Ms. Bourgeois often spoke of pain as the subject of her art, and fear: fear of the grip of the past, of the uncertainty of the future, of loss in the present.

“The subject of pain is the business I am in,” she said. “To give meaning and shape to frustration and suffering.” She added: “The existence of pain cannot be denied. I propose no remedies or excuses.” Yet it was her gift for universalizing her interior life as a complex spectrum of sensations that made her art so affecting.

Louise Bourgeois was born on Dec. 25, 1911, on the Left Bank of Paris, the second of three children born to Louis and Josephine Bourgeois. Her parents, financially comfortable, owned a gallery that dealt primarily in antique tapestries. A few years after her birth the family moved out of Paris and set up a workshop for tapestry restoration in Choisy-le-Roi. Ms. Bourgeois remembered as a child drawing fragments of missing images to help in the repairs.

Ms. Bourgeois often spoke of her early, emotionally conflicted family life as formative. Her practical and affectionate mother, who was an invalid, was a positive influence. Her father’s domineering disposition, as well as his marital infidelities (he had a 10-year affair with the children’s English governess), instilled a resentment and an insecurity that Ms. Bourgeois never laid to rest.

Her nightmarish tableau of 1974, “The Destruction of the Father,” for example, is a table in a stagily lighted recess, which holds an arrangement of breastlike bumps, phallic protuberances and other biomorphic shapes in soft-looking latex that suggest the sacrificial evisceration of a body, the whole surrounded by big, crude mammillary forms. Ms. Bourgeois has suggested as the tableau’s inspiration a fantasy from childhood in which a pompous father, whose presence deadens the dinner hour night after night, is pulled onto the table by other family members, dismembered and gobbled up.

Louise Bourgeois - Maman

Similarly, for a 1994 exhibition titled “Louise Bourgeois: Locus of Memory, Works 1982-1993,” she created a single sculpture and suite of drawings in which the central image was a spider, a creature she associated with her mother, a woman of ever-changing moods.

Drawn in orange and flesh-pink gouache, it here stalked across the page and there shrunk to the size of a pea. As an immense sculpture of soldered metal tubing, it loomed ominously over the viewer but was delicate enough to quiver and sway at a touch. Fragility and fierceness were, in fact, the twin poles of Ms. Bourgeois’s art.

Often there was a precise association in her work. After she had created a number of vertical spirals that seemed to twist in space, she evoked childhood memories of the tapestry business and her family: “When a tapestry had to be washed in the river, it took four people to hoist it out and twist it. Twisting is very important for me. When I dreamt of getting rid of the mistress, it was by twisting her neck.”

At the age of 20, she entered the Sorbonne to study mathematics and geometry, disciplines that she valued for their stability. “I got peace of mind,” she later said, “only through the study of rules nobody could change.” But she left to enroll in a succession of art schools, and counted Fernand Léger among her teachers.

In 1938 she married Robert Goldwater, an American art historian noted for his pioneering work in the field then referred to as primitive art. They moved to New York City that same year, and Ms. Bourgeois attended the Art Students League, where she studied painting with Vaclav Vytlacil and also produced sculpture and prints.

She knew many of the European surrealists then arriving as refugees in New York (she later dismissed them as “smart alecks”), but the artists to whom she felt closest were the American painters who would come to be known as Abstract Expressionists.

Ms. Bourgeois had a solo show of paintings in New York in 1945 and her first exhibition of sculpture — an installation of tall, polelike figures that she intended as abstract portraits of family members and friends — four years later at the Peridot Gallery, at which time she gave up painting for good.

She enjoyed some professional success as a sculptor thereafter (she participated in the Whitney Museum of American Art’s Annual Exhibition almost yearly until 1962). But a significant shift in her career came in 1966, when she was included in an exhibition at the Fischbach Gallery in New York, “Eccentric Abstraction,” organized by the critic Lucy Lippard.

Ms. Bourgeois’s long involvement in the nascent feminist movement, about which she had passionate but ambivalent feelings, began at this time. In the following year she made her first of many trips to the marble works in Carrara and Pietrasanta, Italy, where she produced dozens of major marble pieces over several years.

After her husband’s death in 1973, she began teaching at the School of Visual Arts and elsewhere, including Columbia University, Cooper Union, New York Studio School and Yale University, which awarded her an honorary Doctor of Fine Arts degree in 1977. She also received an honorary doctorate from Pratt Institute in Brooklyn in 1993.

By the mid-1970s, with shifts in art-world trends, her reputation was steadily growing. Although she had been given only four one-woman shows in 30 years after her debut as a sculptor in 1949, from 1978 to 1981 she had five in New York alone. Her retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art the following year, the first retrospective of a woman at the museum, secured her place as an influential figure. Her reputation grew even stronger in the context of the body-centered art of the ’90s, with its emphasis on sexuality, vulnerability and mortality.

Ms. Bourgeois’s first European retrospective was organized by the Kunstverein in Frankfurt in 1989. In 1993 she was chosen to represent the United States at the Venice Biennale. Her exhibition, organized by Charlotta Kotik of the Brooklyn Museum of Art and titled “Louise Bourgeois: The Locus of Memory, Works 1982-1993,” later traveled to the Brooklyn and to the Corcoran Gallery of Art in Washington.

A second international retrospective was organized by the Tate Modern in London and the Centre Pompidou in Paris in 2007 and traveled to New York, Los Angeles and Washington the following year. The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte/Reina Sofia in Madrid and the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg mounted retrospectives.

She also was included in four Whitney Biennials, the first in 1973 and the most recent in 1997, and a number of major international shows, including Documenta and the Carnegie International.

A survey of her prints was organized by the Modern in 1994, and a survey of her drawings by the University Art Museum at the University of California, Berkeley, in 1995. At her death, two films about her had been completed. She was represented by Cheim & Read Gallery in Chelsea.

Ms. Bourgeois was named Officer of the Order of Arts and Letters by the French minister of culture in 1983. Other honors included the Grand Prix National de Sculpture from the French government in 1991; the National Medal of Arts, presented to her by President Bill Clinton in 1997; the first lifetime achievement award from the International Sculpture Center in Washington; and election as a fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences.

Certainly her personal style contributed to her mystique. Petite in size, gruff of voice and manner, outspoken but suspicious of interviewers, she spent much of her time either in her home in the Chelsea section of Manhattan or in her studio in Brooklyn, where she worked with Jerry Gorovoy, her assistant since 1980.

Ms Bourgeois is survived by two sons, Jean-Louis, of Manhattan, and Alain, of Brooklyn; two grandchildren; and a great granddaughter. Her son Michel died in 1990.

A lifelong insomniac, she often stayed up drawing or writing in her journal, in the same plain, epigrammatic style in which she spoke. (Her writings and interviews were published under the title “Destruction of the Father/Reconstruction of the Father” by the MIT Press in 1998).

“I have a religious temperament,” Ms. Bourgeois, a professed atheist, said about the emotional and spiritual energy that she poured into her work. “I have not been educated to use it. I’m afraid of power. It makes me nervous. In real life, I identify with the victim. That’s why I went into art.”

31

05 2010

Five More Artworks Taken in Second French Heist

JUST DAYS after celebrated paintings by Picasso and Matisse were stolen in one of the biggest art heists in French history, it has emerged that a further five works – including a Picasso lithograph – have been taken from the home of a private collector in southern France.

In the latest theft, judicial police said two men managed to get past security gates at a private home in Marseille on Friday. They then knocked on the door and beat up the owner before making away with five pictures. The most important work taken was reportedly a lithograph representing a woman’s face painted by Picasso, but the estimated value of the stolen pieces have not been made public.

Meanwhile, officials at Paris city hall have begun their own investigation into the theft of five masterpieces worth almost [euro]100 million from the Musee d’Art Moderne in the capital last week after confirming that the alarm system had been “partially malfunctioning” since late March.

Christophe Girard, a deputy to Paris mayor Bertrand Delanoe with responsibility for culture, confirmed yesterday that the alarm fault had been reported in March but that the museum was still awaiting delivery of a replacement part when the heist was carried out on Thursday morning.

Surveillance cameras show a lone intruder entering through a window at about 4am before carefully removing five paintings by Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Leger and Braque and leaving undetected. Although there were three security guards in the building at the time, it was reportedly not until after 6am that staff noticed a smashed window pane and a sawn padlock.

In an interview with the Journal du Dimanchenewspaper, Mr Girard said those responsible had acted “with precision, speed and sophistication”, while the movements of the individual captured on CCTV footage suggested he or she was aware of the placement of cameras in the building.

Interpol has alerted its 188 member countries about the Paris theft after French authorities asked for its help in tracking down the stolen paintings.

“The French authorities have made sure that police around the world now have the information they need to assist in locating and eventually recovering these stolen works of art,” Interpol’s Jean- Michel Louboutin said. “These extraordinary paintings by these great masters are so recognisable that they will be difficult to sell.”

Experts have suggested criminal gangs trying to extort money from the museum or state, or who trade the works in the underworld for drugs or weapons, could be behind last week’s robberies.

Originally published by RUADHAN Mac CORMAIC in Paris.

See article source here

27

05 2010

Brilliant Designer Alexander McQueen Found Dead

Alexander McQueenBrilliant and controversial British fashion designer Alexander McQueen was found dead in his London home Thursday after anguished Internet postings that revealed his deep sorrow at the death of his mother. He was 40 years old.

The circumstances pointed to a possible suicide but there was no official confirmation from police or McQueen’s publicists. Police said the death was not suspicious, apparently ruling out foul play, and did not give any immediate indication of how the death was discovered.

The Sun tabloid on Thursday cited an anonymous source on its website who said an ambulance was called at 10 a.m. and workers found McQueen hanging in his apartment. The newspaper gave no further details.

McQueen’s sudden death robbed the fashion scene of one of its most innovative and successful young designers. His clothes were sexy and distinctive, dramatic and different, perfect for red-carpet presentations and late night rock gatherings.

He made his name first in London, then wooed audiences in Paris, New York and Milan to take his place in the upper echelons of the design world.

Yet recently posted comments on his Twitter page showed that McQueen was distraught over the Feb. 2 death of his mother. He said he wanted his mother to rest in peace “but life must go on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”

Using an obscenity, he added that he had had an “awful week” and said he had to “some how pull myself together and finish.”

Little was immediately known about the circumstances surrounding his death, which came as the fashion elite was gathered in New York for a series of catwalk shows.

A presentation of McQueen’s secondary label, McQ, had been scheduled for Thursday’s opening day of New York Fashion Week. McQueen had never been expected at the show, which was quickly canceled.

Acclaim and honors came pouring for the talented, bearded man favored by celebrities like Madonna, Lady Gaga and Naomi Campbell and named British Fashion Designer of the Year four times.

McQueen was also responsible for designing the infamous costume that came apart during Janet Jackson’s Super Bowl appearance in one of history’s most noted “wardrobe malfunctions.”

Despite the accolades, McQueen clung tenaciously to his privacy, turning down most interview requests and shying away from the post-show limelight other designers craved. He was the youngest of six children born to a taxi driver and a teacher, his representatives in New York said.

Known for his dramatic statement pieces and impeccable tailoring, he helped raise the profile of British fashion and was recognized by Queen Elizabeth II in 2003 when she made him a Commander of the British Empire for his fashion leadership.

His pieces were coveted and treasured by stylish women across the globe.

“McQueen influenced a whole generation of designers. His brilliant imagination knew no bounds as he conjured up collection after collection of extraordinary designs,” said Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue.

Hal Rubenstein, a fashion director for InStyle magazine said McQueen started out tough and angry — in his work and attitude — but softened over time as he felt more appreciated by the industry.

McQueen, he said, was a master of integration of technology into fashion.

“He changed the way so many of us see shows,” Rubenstein said.

Vivienne Westwood, perhaps Britain’s most revered designer, said she was “incredibly sorry” to hear of McQueen’s death.

The designer received his early fashion training at the Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design, long recognized for its fashion-forward approach and encouragement of Britain’s talented young designers.

He learned the finer points of traditional men’s tailoring at two famous, conservative Savile Row houses: Anderson and Sheppard and also Gieves and Hawkes.

“He was 16 when he came here,” said John Hitchcock of Anderson and Sheppard. “He was a boy from Essex, he wanted to learn tailoring. He was a little bit different — he was very ambitious.”

He said McQueen’s success had inspired the next generation of designers.

After his Savile Row stint, McQueen started to develop his trademark, more theatrical designs, working with several other brands before first starting his own label in 1992.

He quickly earned a reputation for innovation that lasted until his death. His last name soon entered the fashion lexicon and become synonymous with new and cutting edge.

The company he founded was purchased by the Gucci Group, and he retained creative control of his own brand.

His runway shows — more often like performance pieces because they were so dramatic, and sometimes, bizarre — were always a highlight during the Paris ready-to-wear fashion week.

One of his previous collections included a show built around the concept of recycling, with models donning extravagant headwear made out of trash. His last collection, shown in October in Paris, featured elaborate and highly structured cocktail dresses. Critics raved.

His edgy creations have been seen on numerous red carpets, worn by A-list actresses, including Sandra Bullock and Cameron Diaz.

Lady Gaga recently made waves when she wore McQueen’s spring 2010 lobster-claw shoes in her “Bad Romance” music video.

McQueen’s death came days before London Fashion Week, an event McQueen had skipped in recent years.

___

Associated Press Writers Raphael G. Satter and Sylvia Hui in London, Jenny Barchfield in Paris and Samantha Critchell in New York contributed to this report.

(see original post here)

11

02 2010

A Handy Guide to Fashion Week’s Live Streams

Fashion Week kicks off tomorrow, and although the tents are notoriously tight (even celebrities can’t guarantee seats this year), the amateur sartorialists among us can watch the runways in real time thanks to a wave of tech-equipped labels. An expanded lineup of designers are live-streaming their shows this season, including Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, Lacoste, and more (even QVC is going live).

Mercedes Benz Fashion WeekWe’ve compiled a list of streamed shows so far — check back for updates as the week progresses…

  • Ports 1961: 3 p.m. on Thursday, February 11, at Vogue.com.
  • Lacoste: 10:30 a.m. on Saturday, February 13, at the Lacoste Facebook page.
  • Alexander Wang: 5 p.m. on Saturday, February 13, at ShowStudio.com.
  • Marc Bouwer: 9 a.m. on Sunday, February 14, at MarcBouwer.com.
  • Calvin Klein Men’s: 2 p.m. on Sunday, February 14, at CalvinKleinInc.com or the Calvin Klein Facebook page.
  • Marc Jacobs: 8 p.m. on Monday, February 15, at MarcJacobs.com.
  • Rodarte: 12 p.m. on Tuesday, February 16, at ShowStudio.com.
  • G-Star Raw: 7 p.m. on Tuesday, February 16, at G-star.com.
  • Calvin Klein Women’s: 3 p.m. on Thursday, February 18, at CalvinKleinInc.com or the Calvin Klein Facebook page.

 

(read the original post here)

10

02 2010

NYC Fashion Incubator

We have a few more tidbits of information on Mayor Bloomberg’s much anticipated Fashion Incubator initiative. We gave you the full scoop on this project here when it was announced back in October. The CFDA along with the New York City Economic Cooperation and our Mayor, have created this program to support emerging designers. We love the idea of creating a place that is literally an incubator of creativity. Plus, it’s set up in a way that not only encourages the entrepreneurial spirit, but backs it up with concrete support systems.

More specifically, this program will financially aid up-and-coming designers who want to stay in the Garment Center and produce their goods locally. Twelve lucky designers (and we made it clear in our previous post how we felt about that skimpy number) will get some much coveted studio space in the heart of the Garment Center. The Fashion Incubator will be our neighbor, located at 209 West 38th Street. So, what’s the unbelievably low rent at this location? Amazingly, only $1500 a month, which is a dream come true for any young designer. But it gets even better; the CFDA has just announced that they will also be providing mentoring to the Fashion Incubator designers. Having a top American designer as a mentor is a priceless advantage.

Of course, this kind of award is not available to just anyone with good fashion sense and a dream. This is a huge economic and political investment for the city and the CFDA. This is a business proposal and not a Project Runway type contest, so designers must have a solid work history. To qualify, the designers need to have sustained their businesses for a minimum of 1.5 years, achieved media coverage, and worked with successful retailers as well as have a record of employing employees. For the right candidate this is an excellent opportunity. Hopefully these twelve designers will prove successful enough, that the program will continue and expand so more candidates of various levels can participate.

(view original source here)

11

01 2010

Turquoise Named 2010 Color of the Year

Already bored with winter white? Good news. Color is certainly in for the new year — namely turquoise and purples — according to design industry groups.

Pantone, a major provider of professional color standards for the design industries, has named turquoise its “color of the year” for 2010. The color evokes tropical escape and serenity, according to Pantone’s experts.

“It is believed to be a protective talisman, a color of deep compassion and healing, and a color of faith and truth, inspired by water and sky,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute in a release. “Through years of color word- association studies, we also find that turquoise represents an escape to many — taking them to a tropical paradise that is pleasant and inviting, even if only a fantasy.”

This means you’ll see more turquoise in fashion, jewelry, paints, furniture and home accessories. Some stores are already on trend.

But another of last year’s most popular colors — purple — is still very much on the palette. Pantone 2009’s color was mimosa — a color reminiscent of the fruity breakfast beverage — and in 2008, it chose blue iris, sparking the purple craze.

Another design color-setting group, Color Marketing Group, is calling Mardi Grape its color for 2010.

“Mardi Grape is a sophisticated crossover between purple, brown and gray. It’s a transfer from fashion with European roots. Mardi Grape used to be a fashion color. Now, it’s all set to be the year’s biggest star for everything else,” according to its news release.

But using purple as a neutral is the emerging trend.

“Purple has been with us for a while now, but the big story today is that we’re seeing purple as a neutral for the very first time,” said CMG President James Martin. “This purple is browner and grayer, a neutral we can love long-term. These days everyone is seeking versatile colors with staying power. Today, neutrals are the lead performers, chameleon colors that shift and change.”

Color Marketing Group’s hot colors for 2010:

Red: Reds are strong with pink intuition; bright and clean with energy and excitement — a clean pop to go with neutrals.

Orange: A rich, sophisticated color that moves away from earth- based colors to an optimistic orange, seasoned with a touch of gray.

Yellow: A greener, more natural yellow, softened with gray.

Green: Optimistic and uplifting, a clear and bright accent green with a slight shift toward blue.

Blue: A saturated blue with gray influences; rich without being too luxe.

Beige-Brown: A true chameleon to complement darker hues, it can be either matte or metallic.

Neutral-Gray: Gray with a touch of purple, drawing inspiration from mineral, concrete and steel.

(original source: artbistro)

05

01 2010

Fashion Week NYC 2009

Mercedes-Benz-Fashion-WeekThis year’s fashion extravaganza
- scheduled from Thursday, September 10 to Thursday September 17, 2009 -
will see designers gather from around the world to exhibit their
Spring /Summer 2010 collections.

The Skinny on Fashion Weekfashion_week_nyc_2009_fall

New York City hosts two major “Super Bowls of Fashion” with the big names of fashion unveiling their fall designs in February, and their spring collections in September.

The Big Move in 2010

Last year, the city promised to provide a newer, bigger showcase to house the bi-annual event, but the traditional venue at Bryant Park will continue until September 2009 for the Spring show.

Starting in 2010, New York Fashion Week moves to the Lincoln Center complex, home to the reknowned Metropolitan Opera house and American Ballet Theatre.

Eye on New York Fashion Week

As always, IMG remains the main driving force behind New York Fashion Week, with Mercedes Benz and Olympus alternately providing major sponsorship.

Twice yearly, the Big Apple goes out of its way to welcome high-powered media moguls and Hollywood movie stars who come to see, or be seen, at one of the planet’s most celebrated fashion events. Behind the scenes, a lucky handful of volunteer interns from city fashion schools, such as nearby FIT or Parsons School of Design, toil as volunteers.

Mere commoners, meanwhile, can tune in to watch full coverage on local channel TV 25 — which annually devotes more than 150 hours of coverage with nightly recaps all week long on special editions of Videofashion Daily.

10

09 2009

CFDA Finale

Women’s Designer of the Year: Rodarte.

The rest is here:
CFDA Finale

16

06 2009

CFDA: ‘One Outfit at a Time’ (zzzzz)

Oh, hello. Back for the Swarovski young designer awards.

The rest is here:
CFDA: ‘One Outfit at a Time’ (zzzzz)

16

06 2009

And The Winners Are…

For accessories: Proenza Schouler. The first Popular Vote Award: Ralph Lauren (in tuxedo jacket and jeans). Men’s wear designer: Scott Sternberg and Italo Zucchelli, a tie

Originally posted here:
And the Winners Are…

16

06 2009

At The CFDA Awards

Marc Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy are sitting in the row in front of me, with folks from Vogue in front of them. Tracey Ullman has just come on the stage, saluting Diane Von Furstenberg and Michelle Obama.

Read the original post:
At the CFDA Awards

16

06 2009