Archive for the ‘Market News’Category

End Piracy, Not Liberty

Millions of Americans oppose SOPA and PIPA because these bills would censor the Internet and slow economic growth in the U.S.

Two bills before Congress, known as the Protect IP Act (PIPA) in the Senate and the Stop Online Piracy Act (SOPA) in the House, would censor the Web and impose harmful regulations on American business. Millions of Internet users and entrepreneurs already oppose SOPA and PIPA. The Senate will begin voting on January 24th. Please let them know how you feel.

Sign this petition urging Congress to vote NO on PIPA and SOPA before it is too late.

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    18

    01 2012

    Kors I.P.O. Makes Its Debut in Style

    Michael Kors brought some glamour — and a big initial public offering — to the New York Stock Exchange Thursday morning.

    A Michael Kors billboard was draped across the Corinthian columns on the exchange building’s facade.

    Outside, Mr. Kors and his mother, Joan Kors, posed for pictures, both sporting December tans, trendy sunglasses and huge smiles. And inside, at 9:30 a.m., high above the trading floor, Mr. Kors rang the opening bell, high-fiving and hugging his chief executive, John Idol, and two backers and fashion tycoons, Lawrence S. Stroll and Silas K. F. Chou.

    Mr. Kors, the American fashion designer, had good reason to celebrate. In the face of a tepid stock market, his company had a successful initial public offering. Its shares opened at $25, up 25 percent from their $20 offering price, and closed at $24.20. The I.P.O. raised $944 million.

    All of the I.P.O. proceeds went to Mr. Kors and other selling shareholders. The company itself did not raise any money in the offering.

    Mr. Kors, 52, perhaps best known for his role as a judge on the fashion reality show “Project Runway,” sold about $117 million worth of stock on the deal, and maintains an 8.6 percent stake that is worth some $400 million.

    The biggest winners are Mr. Stroll and Mr. Chou, who cashed in about $520 million worth of their holding company’s shares and still own about 35 percent of the business, a position worth about $1.7 billion.

    At its current stock price, Kors, the business, is worth about $4.6 billion.

    The company, which was founded in 1981 and is based in Hong Kong, is one of the world’s fastest-growing retailers. Its profits nearly doubled in its most recent fiscal year, which ended April 2, over the previous one, and its sales increased by about 60 percent.

    Though Mr. Kors continues to design his signature couture collection, most of the company’s growth has come from an “affordable luxury” line that sells less expensive purses and clothes at department stores like Dillard’s and Macy’s.

    Industry analysts have questioned whether Kors can continue to expand without weakening its brand. In that regard, Kors hopes to replicate how the designer Ralph Lauren has brought his designs down market without tarnishing his label’s prestige.

    Though Internet businesses like Groupon and Zynga have been the primary focus of the I.P.O. market in the last year, several high-profile apparel companies have also sold shares to the public. The Kors offering follows stock sales over the summer by the European fashion houses Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo.

    (view original source)

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      16

      12 2011

      Paper or Cloth? Southampton Town Seeks to Ban Plastic Bags

      “In my opinion, we’re going to look back at this and question why we didn’t do this earlier,” Southampton Town Supervisor Anna Throne-Holst said to her fellow council members.

      Throne-Holst was speaking at a town board work session last Friday, December 9 in reference to a proposed ban on single-use plastic bags throughout the town of Southampton.

      “I think the entire world is moving in this direction,” added Throne-Holst, a stanch proponent of the measure.

      The proposal to ban plastic bags in the town of Southampton comes nearly six months after the first work session was held on the matter. In that time, the town’s sustainability committee chairman Tip Brolin sought more information from the town’s business community and consumers, specifically addressing concerns many businesses initially expressed regarding the high price of replacing plastic with recyclable paper.

      The town’s proposed plastic ban initially would effectively ban single-use plastic bags less than two mils thick, and less than 28 inches by 36 inches in size. Smaller plastic bags — like those used to hold fish and produce — would not be affected by the ban.

      The legislation also originally included provisions that would have allowed stores to carry paper bags made of 40 percent recyclable materials, a stipulation that essentially mirrors similar legislation already enacted in Westport, Conn. (Most grocery stores use paper bags that are made of 30 percent recyclable materials.)

      “I do generally agree with the fact that we need to get greener,” said Debbie Longnecker of Cromer’s Market on Noyac Road.

      However, she expressed some concern with the added price tag associated with purchasing reusable bags and paper bags.

      At one point, she explained, “We gave reusable bags away. However, not everyone brings them back.”

      She said the store’s winter clientele is more inclined to get into the habit of consistently bringing reusable bags when they shop. But she said it’s a different story with the summer people who are in the area for a short period of time and less inclined to bring their own bags when they shop.

      “I think a lot more planning has to be done before [this law is enacted],” she added. “There needs to be a cost-effective alternative before you say to people: You can’t do this anymore.”

      Partially quelling Longnecker’s concern, Brolin explained last week that the proposed legislation will in fact allow stores to use the less expensive paper bags made of 30 percent recyclable materials. Plus, he added that follow-up surveys with nearly 1,700 shoppers in Westport, Conn. revealed that 53 percent were consistently using reusable bags after the plastic ban went into effect. Brolin compared this number to the nearby Norwalk/Wilton area — which has not implemented a plastic bag ban — where the number is closer to 10 percent.

      Should Southampton Town decide to implement legislation that bans single-use plastic bags, it would follow in the footsteps of both Southampton Village, which banned plastic last spring, and East Hampton Village, which adopted similar legislation last month. The legislation proposed for the town would essentially be the same as that adopted in the Village of Southampton, except that paper bags would only have to be made with 30 percent recyclable materials as opposed to 40 percent.

      Before adopting the legislation, Brolin reported that the town initially discussed promoting the use of reusable shopping bags by educating the community on the harms of single-use plastic bags — the fact that most of the bags are not recycled and are piling up in landfills and littering the oceans, thereby potentially harming at least 260 different sea species. However, Supervisor Anna Throne-Holst said that after a lackluster response from the business community, she feels the best tactic at this point is to adopt the legislation and spend six months before the policy is enacted making residents aware of this change.

      According to Liz Plouff, the town’s sustainability coordinator, education will come in the way of press releases and conferences, as well as a partnership with SeaTV, the town government television channel. In addition, Plouff has suggested the town hand-out reusable bags to town residents at no charge. She said the town could finance this measure by getting local stores and businesses to pay a small fee in exchange for getting their logos printed on the bags.

      The town board will hold its first official public hearing on the proposed plastic bag legislation on Thursday, December 22.

      (by Claire Walla – The Sag Harbor Express)

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        14

        12 2011

        IMPACT: 50 Years of Fashion from CFDA @ Museum at FIT

        The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology presents Impact: Fifty Years of the CFDA, the first museum exhibition to celebrate the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the leading fashion trade organization in the United States. Approximately 100 garments and accessories designed by the CFDA’s most impactful creators of the last 50 years will be on view from February 10 through April 20, 2012.

        Also included in the exhibition will be visual images and acknowledgement of the nearly 600 designers who have been members over the last five decades. Each living designer selected to participate in the exhibition will select a single object or ensemble that best represents his or her impact on the fashion world. Work by historical CFDA members will be selected by exhibition curators Patricia Mears, deputy director of The Museum at FIT, and Fred Dennis, the museum’s senior curator. Impact: Fifty Years of the CFDA is a collaborative partnership between The Museum at FIT and the CFDA.

        Conceived by CFDA President Diane von Furstenberg, Impact will be an ode to the illustrious designs of the CFDA’s many members and will mark the organization’s 50th anniversary in 2012.

        Among the designers included in the exhibition will be Halston, Norman Norell, Pauline Trigère, Geoffrey Beene, Bill Blass, Rudi Gernreich, Bob Mackie, James Galanos, Diane von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, Isabel Toledo, Rodarte, and Proenza Schouler. The exhibition will be organized thematically to illuminate the broad spectrum of American creativity, from functional sportswear to couture-quality evening wear.

        Founded in 1962 by publicist Eleanor Lambert and 50 of America’s leading fashion designers, the CFDA’s primary mandate was the recognition and promotion of fashion design talent based in the United States. Over the next five decades, as CFDA membership swelled to more than 400, its professional and philanthropic activities, outreach, and influence expanded exponentially. Today, in an era dominated by the designer label, it is perhaps difficult to comprehend how seminal a role the CFDA played in creating the platform for the recognition of individual creative talents in New York City, the nexus of global fashion.

        “American designers have always had impact on how people dress,” said von Furstenberg. “In honor of that creativity and in celebration of the CFDA’s 50th anniversary, we are proud to present, in partnership with The Museum at FIT, an exhibit that represents the tremendous work of our members for the last five decades. ‘Impact’ was the one word that came to mind immediately—it is so strong and defining of our individual and collective influence that we knew right away that our exhibit would be called Impact: 50 Years of the CFDA.”

        “The Museum at FIT is extremely pleased to be collaborating with Diane von Furstenberg and the CFDA on the exhibition Impact,” said Valerie Steele, museum director. “Exhibition curator Patricia Mears is an authority on American fashion both past and present, and I’m sure our visitors will love to see which creations today’s designers have selected.”

        A publication also entitled Impact, produced by the CFDA and published by Abrams, will be the visually rich companion book to the exhibition. With more than 500 photographs, the book will document the evolution of the CFDA, from its birth in 1962, its early promotional efforts, and its strong ties to the arts, to the growth of its educational programs, its support of worthy causes, its own awards ceremony, its stewardship of fashion week, and its support of designers. Contributors include Diane von Furstenberg; Cathy Horyn, fashion journalist for the New York Times; and Patricia Mears.

        The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc, (CFDA) is a not-for-profit trade association founded in 1962 that leads industry-wide initiatives and whose membership consists of more than 400 of America’s foremost women’s wear, menswear, jewelry, and accessory designers.

        The Museum at FIT is the only museum in New York City dedicated solely to the art of fashion. Best known for its innovative and award-winning exhibitions, which the New York Times has described as “ravishing,” the museum has a collection of more than 50,000 garments and accessories dating from the 18th century to the present.

        The museum is part of the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), a college of art and design, business and technology that educates more than 10,000 students annually. FIT is a college of the State University of New York (SUNY) and offers more than 46 majors leading to the AAS, BFA, BS, MA, MFA, and MPS degrees. Visit www.fitnyc.edu.

        The Couture Council is a membership group of fashion enthusiasts that helps support the exhibitions and programs of The Museum at FIT. The Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion is given to a selected designer at a benefit luncheon held every September.

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          13

          12 2011

          Tangerine Tango: Pantone’s color of the year in fashion.

          The color of 2012 is a citrus-red hue that will give your weary eyes a break from all of those neutrals. Tangerine Tango, Pantone’s 2012 color of the year, was selected because, “there’s the element of encouragement with orange, it’s building on the ideas of courage and action, that we want to move on to better things. I think it would be a disservice to go with a relaxed, soothing color now,” Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, told the Associated Press.

          The Pantone color of the year — which, last year, was a bright pink shade called Honeysuckle — is an annual influence on fashion and design. Tangerine Tango has already begun to pop up in fashion and cosmetics, with a strong showing in New York’s fashion week this fall. The bright orange is not an especially tricky color to wear, but it’s also not universally flattering — especially when it comes to cosmetics. Can you picture Tangerine Tango-hued eyeshadow? Pantone can.

          By Maura Judkis

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            11

            12 2011

            Fashion Icon Donna Karan Launches Urban Zen Integrative Therapy Program at UCLA

            When world-renowned fashion designer Donna Karan’s husband, Stephan Weiss, was dying of lung cancer in 2001, she was distressed that there was no place in the New York hospital that offered yoga and other meditative therapies to ease his suffering. The experience galvanized her into action.

            “Much was missing from Stephan’s care,” Karan said. “He needed the knowledge of traditional Western medicine. But he also needed healing that can only be accessed from the heart and through the spirit. Out of my frustrations with the treatment at even the best medical facilities, a commitment was born. I am determined to do what I can to create a new model for wellness and patient care in hospitals and to address the needs of patients’ loved ones and the staff who are on the journey with them.”

            Karan took a combination of Eastern healing techniques that she found effective and developed them into an actual program that has expanded to hospitals across the country. Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center, part of the UCLA Health System, is the first hospital on the West Coast to adopt the program.

            In partnership with Karan’s Urban Zen Foundation, the UCLA Health System will be offering a unique Eastern healing program designed to enhance the care of patients. The program will include:

            • Training of doctors, nurses and other hospital staff members in holistic practices to encourage optimal healing.
            • Introduction of Eastern healing modalities to patients, including yoga therapy (breath awareness, in-bed movement and guided meditation); Reiki (a Japanese vibrational energy therapy facilitated by light touch, on or slightly off the body, that balances the human biofield); essential oil therapy; nutrition; and contemplative care.

             

            “UCLA Health System has a long tradition of integrating holistic health care techniques with traditional medical care,” said Dr. David Feinberg, president of the UCLA Health System, CEO of the UCLA Hospital System and associate vice chancellor for health sciences. “We are grateful to Ms. Karan for bringing her vision of holistic healing to our patients at Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center. It fits in perfectly with our mission of treating the whole patient rather than just a particular illness. We feel fortunate to partner with Donna on her vision of combining the very best in Western medicine with Eastern healing therapy techniques that enhance the patient’s health and well-being.”

            “While traditional science has made miraculous strides in controlling and eradicating disease,” Karan said, “the key recuperative role played by promoting the emotional and spiritual well-being of the patient, along with the medical professionals and loved ones who care for them, has often been neglected. The objective of the Urban Zen Integrative Therapy program is to train and then to provide integrative therapists in hospitals, outpatient care, support groups and private practices who can blend the best of Eastern and Western healing techniques.”

            The UCLA Center for East-West Medicine currently offers traditional Chinese medicine, including acupuncture, acupressure and herbal medicine, on an outpatient basis. UCLA’s Mindful Awareness Research Center teaches the practice of mindfulness — the moment-by-moment process of actively and openly observing one’s physical, mental and emotional experiences.

            The Urban Zen Integrative Therapy Program at the UCLA Health System is designed to take these advances to the next level.

            “During this curriculum, medical professionals from the UCLA Health System will be trained in five modalities of treatment: yoga therapy, Reiki, essential oil therapy, nutrition and contemplative care,” said Gillian Cilibrasi, Urban Zen’s program director. “Each modality is introduced separately, and then students are taught how to integrate the modalities to address whatever symptoms the patient or client is experiencing, such as pain, anxiety, nausea, insomnia, constipation and exhaustion. Once integration has been learned, students begin their practical experience during their clinical rotation hours, working with patients, loved ones and caregivers.”

            “This program of ‘integrative medicine’ addresses issues such as pain control, nausea, relaxation and sleep,” said Ellen Wilson, director of therapy services at Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center. “There is essentially a menu of approaches, including yoga, aromatherapy, Reiki and meditation. The concept is that existing employees are trained in the techniques by the Urban Zen facilitators and then can provide these services to patients upon request or if recommended by the patients’ caregivers.”

            Training for the first group of 30 professionals at UCLA, including doctors, nurses, therapists, social workers and other care providers, began in September, Wilson said, and the program will be ready to provide these services to patients this December.

            “UCLA will then train new teams of 50 employees at a time, with the goal of eventually having trained 250 to 300 personnel available throughout the health system in both inpatient and outpatient areas,” Wilson said.

            “Cancer patients are likely to be the first group to receive these holistic healing offerings at UCLA,” Feinberg said. “With more than 1.5 million Americans diagnosed with cancer annually, there are many people and families who could benefit from an approach that involves treating the whole patient and his or her loved ones — and not just the disease.”

            The UCLA Health System has committed to supporting Urban Zen at UCLA but also seeks philanthropic donations to augment the program’s reach.

            “Such additional support will expedite UCLA’s ability to expand the program to hospitalized patients at Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center, Mattel Children’s Hospital UCLA, Stewart and Lynda Resnick Neuropsychiatric Hospital at UCLA and Santa Monica-UCLA Medical Center and Orthopaedic Hospital,” Feinberg said.

            For more information, visit www.rehab.ucla.edu.

            The Urban Zen Foundation, founded in 2007 by fashion designer and humanitarian Donna Karan, seeks to raise awareness and inspire change in three initiatives: preservation of culture; empowering children in mind, body and spirit; and integrating Eastern healing techniques with Western medicine. Urban Zen designs forums, partners with and provides funding for like-minded organizations, and brings together experts to define solutions, implement action, and create programs and meaningful events to develop a community of like-minded people.

            The UCLA Health System has for more than half a century provided the best in health care and the latest in medical technology to the people of Los Angeles and the world. Comprised of Ronald Reagan UCLA Medical Center, Santa Monica-UCLA Medical Center and Orthopaedic Hospital, the Resnick Neuropsychiatric Hospital at UCLA, Mattel Children’s Hospital UCLA and the UCLA Medical Group, with its wide-reaching system of primary care and specialty care offices throughout the region, the UCLA Health System is among the most comprehensive and advanced health care systems in the world. For information about clinical programs or help in choosing a personal physician, call 800-UCLA-MD1 or visit www.uclahealth.org.

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              18

              11 2011

              Storyline behind the PET:cell Brand

              Childhood inspiration

              The year is 1980, and in a home-based workshop a 5-year old Tonya O’Hara is watching her dad spending hours painstakingly repairing the broken components of malfunctioned television sets. This genetic disposition was the seed for a long-life fascination with the meticulous and methodical arranging of components…

              Career

              Fast-forward to 1998 and having obtained a HND in Jewellery Design at the Birmingham School of Jewellery and a BA Honours Degree in Jewellery Design at Loughborough University, the dream of setting up a business was to be put on hold in favour of a funds-building exercise – this exercise was to last for 8 years. The most lucrative option at the time was teaching in secondary schools however it was essential that she returned to the true fulfilment of her grass-roots…

              Artist Statement

              With a strong philosophical outlook, the collection has been based upon a storyline inspired by an urban philosopher’s vision of hope. Having had a lifelong fascination with the complexities of microscopic organisms and cells, and working with her initial storyline Tonya has constructed and grown small pockets of this microscopic world, which would otherwise be unseen to the naked eye. Working through the medium of PET plastic (recycled bottles) she has developed several unique techniques to capture the delicate qualities of her subject matter. Always present is an element of fragility which is contradicted by the durability of the materials used. With a desire to inspire society to apply creativity and innovation to all aspects of life, these are small reminders that one person’s waste is another person’s treasure.

              Storyline behind the PET:cell Brand

              Deep within the dark abyss the humble PET bottle yearned for an escape, to be transformed once more…to know love and be intimately connected. Unbeknown to the bottle, lady Gaia was to reclaim her earth and through a cataclysm, peace and harmony was finally to be restored. A majestic shimmering door appeared and several children slipped through the gateway to another dimension. Later to be returned as children of a renewal, as the scallywags of womankind, with creative ingenuity they used their artistry to transform the dullest of resources into objects of intrigue. And so the humble PET bottle was metamorphosed into a beautiful, aesthetic wearable, once more to be intimately connected to womankind. From one pet cell to another, beauty and intrigue was born…

              Processed and Techniques

              Working through the medium of PET plastic, drinks bottles are broken down into workable sheets of material for further use. Each individual detail is cut by hand and finished using heat forming processes. Heat forming is also used to form the band of the ring. A patination technique has been developed for the base of the main detail and the rivets used have been especially developed using a discreet technique which enables the product to retain full transparency. The feathers are joined to the main detail of the ring by silver crimps.

              The Range

              The range has been built around a strong collection of finger adornments which incorporate the use of sculptured feathers, complete with complimentary bangles and earrings. With names like “Jelly Chandelier” (earrings), “Tarantula” (pheasant-feather ring) and “Cellulose” (bangle) you can’t help but be drawn in by intrigue…

              Stockist

              Within a month of its conception the PET:cell range is already available in London’s cutting-edge and fashion-forward retailer Junky Styling – www.junkystyling.co.uk – renowned for its innovative recycling of clothing garments.

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                06

                12 2010

                Music & Fashion: Ali Hewson

                Edun’s Ali Hewson is famous for being Bono’s wife, yes, but also for being a designer bent on raising consumer consciousness. Her latest T-shirt project is bringing economic independence to farmers in a Uganda devastated by civil war.

                It had rained a few days before I arrived in Gulu, a rough-and-tumble city of nearly 150,000 in war-torn northern Uganda. So the fiery red clay dust, normally so thick in the air, was only starting to kick up as we bounced through bucket-deep potholes out into the bush, toward the village of Amilobo, about an hour away from Gulu’s center. Our party of 10 was on its way to meet a small collective of cotton farmers led by a 37-year-old woman named Aweko Joska. Stuffed into a battered jeep and van were me and another print journalist; a documentary crew; Ali Hewson; and a few staffers from the Conservation Cotton Initiative (CCI), a joint effort of the nonprofit Invisible Children and Edun Live, the T-shirt-manufacturing arm of the Hewsons’ fashion label, Edun.

                Like an eco–American Apparel, minus the jailbait marketing campaign, Edun Live is taking 100 percent organic cotton, farmed by people like Joska, and turning it into ­T-shirts in a green factory in Uganda’s capital city of Kampala. Then it wholesales the blank shirts to bands (who sell them at concerts), clothing companies, and anyone else who asks. Since its founding in 2007, Edun Live has produced 700,000 African-made ­T-shirts. It’s what Hewson calls a “100 percent African grow-to-sew initiative.”

                Joska’s collective, made up of extended family and neighbors, from teenagers to great-grandmothers, joined CCI last year—and in the next two years, CCI hopes to more than quadruple its number of affiliate farmers, from the current 1,097 to 8,000. The way it works is that the Ugandan government gives CCI organic cottonseed, which the group then distributes to its collectives. CCI also gives its farmers oxen to plow ancestral fields gone fallow during the country’s long-running civil war; support from agronomists; and a guaranteed local buyer, CCI itself, for every last cotton ball that can be plucked from those sticky, unforgiving stems. For all this, CCI is pretty small, with a core staff of seven, plus 14 satellite employees and farm coordinators working out of a three-bedroom house with unreliable plumbing in Gulu.

                When we arrived at Joska’s village—late, as is so often the case when you’re traveling in the bush—she and her fellow farmers cheered, clapped, and ululated. Six months pregnant with her eighth child, Joska led us to a spreading shade tree, where we settled next to a cow nursing its tiny calf. There, one by one, the farmers explained, graciously, that this season they’d need more seed, and ­sooner, if they were to prepare for the unpredictable rainfalls. More oxen were required, too, because the farmers wanted to cultivate as much field as possible. And finally, as important as anything else, they asked for encouragement. After all the chaos and mistrust sown by internecine warfare, reminders of contracts signed and promises made count for a lot in Uganda.

                Despite the challenges, Joska’s group, and others are like it, is beginning to thrive. The first harvest from her own one-acre plot netted 700,000 shillings, or about $350, which is close to the average per capita income in Uganda. (CCI collectives share resources and training but each member owns his or her own land.) The money allowed Joska to celebrate Christmas with her family for the first time since Uganda’s civil war began, more than 20 years ago, and to send her eldest daughter, Gloria, 19, to a good boarding school.

                And next year, the money may be even better. CCI plans to put two cotton gins in the countryside, which means the farmers themselves will be able to separate the fiber from the seed. By ginning their own cotton, Joska and her group not only don’t have to find someone else to do it, but they get to keep—and sell—the by-products of the process: cottonseed oil and seedcake. The only stipulation CCI makes is that the farmers must keep everything organic, which in Uganda isn’t much of a problem, perhaps sadly. Due to a historic lack of resources, farmers have never been able to afford pesticides. Ugandan cotton, says CCI Program Director Claude Auberson, is “organic by default.”

                When Bono and Ali Hewson first started Edun, in 2005, they’d planned to produce all of the label’s upscale denim and separates in Africa. (Trade for aid has long been Bono’s stance, one he’s put into practice in other business endeavors, such as Product [RED].) But local skill levels and unreliable distribution made manufacturing a more sophisticated line on the continent often impossible. That’s when the couple hit upon the idea of making something more basic: a T-shirt. The beauty of it, Hewson says, is that the whole shebang—farming the cotton, then processing, spinning, dyeing, and sewing it—can be done locally, allowing Ugandans to keep more of the profit. Hewson’s dream is to revive an entire industry, but that won’t happen overnight. In the 1970s, cotton accounted for 25 percent of Uganda’s exports (and 40 percent of its export earnings); now it’s 4 percent.

                Dressed in a rumpled black cotton skirt and bejeweled flip-flops, Hewson is no stranger to the bush, having made several other trips on behalf of Edun to Kenya and Lesotho. Her thrill at meeting Joska and her family is palpable as she hands out hippie-mom purse snacks (gluten-free seed paste and dried fruit, anyone?). “Now that CCI is really in development,” the 49-year-old Hewson says, “it’s so exciting. We knew we’d picked the right place here—the cotton industry was once so strong.”

                To fully appreciate the wonder of harvesting a simple cotton crop in Uganda, you have to look into the country’s past. Practically from its beginnings, when Uganda declared its independence from Great Britain in 1962, the East African country has been beset by ethnic and political strife. President Idi Amin’s murderous reign in the 1970s turned into outright civil war in the 1980s, as tensions between the disenfranchised Acholis in the north (Joska’s people) and the more politically entrenched, wealthier tribes of the south exploded. During this period, labor-intensive cotton farming all but died. But mass poverty was just a harbinger of the misery to come.

                In 1988, a messianic Christian warlord named Joseph Kony started a campaign to overthrow the government with a guerrilla group he named the Lord’s Resistance Army. Speaking in tongues, occasionally dressing in drag, and with a harem of ­60-plus teenage wives, Kony conscripted anywhere from 25,000 to 66,000 children into the LRA, according to the Christian relief organization World Vision International. By addicting his young charges to a mixture of cocaine, heroin, and gunpowder, Kony effectively made it nearly impossible for them to return home. Kony—who’s been on the run since 2008, when he refused to sign a peace agreement and neighboring countries joined with the Ugandan Army to hunt him down—also forced the child soldiers to kill, rape, and mutilate their friends and families.

                Moreover, in 1996 the government forced more than 1.5 million people into refugee camps, ostensibly to protect them and to smoke out LRA collaborators. Inside the virtually unsupervised camps, LRA kidnappings continued, and rape, malnutrition, and disease were rampant.

                Which brings us back to Joska. She was one of these unfortunate refugees, and during the decade she and her family were in camps, they couldn’t work their land, leaving them dependent on handouts for survival. (Perhaps it’s obvious, or incidental in this horror show, but she also couldn’t send her children to school: The education system had nearly collapsed.)

                In 2006, the camps finally began to close, and Joska and millions like her slowly made their way back home. “Everywhere I’ve been in Africa, I’ve been blown away by the people’s willingness to work hard, feed themselves, and educate their children,” Hewson says as we’re driving away from the compound. “Coming here, seeing the people, their children, their resilience—it’s inspiring. Africa has been such a huge part of us for so many years. To see this project now, really on its way, well…it’s huge.” She pauses pensively, but only for a moment.

                “It’s only the beginning. People say fashion is frivolous, but in its own way, it can change people’s lives.”

                By Alexandra Marshall (elle.com)

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                  03

                  09 2010

                  Louise Bourgeois, Influential Sculptor, Passes at 98

                  Louise BourgeoisLouise Bourgeois, the French-born American artist who gained fame only late in a long career, when her psychologically charged abstract sculptures, drawings and prints had a galvanizing effect on the work of younger artists, particularly women, died on Monday in Manhattan, where she lived. She was 98.

                  The cause was a heart attack, said Wendy Williams, managing director of the Louise Bourgeois Studio.

                  Ms. Bourgeois’s sculptures in wood, steel, stone and cast rubber, often organic in form and sexually explicit, emotionally aggressive yet witty, covered many stylistic bases. But from first to last they shared a set of repeated themes centered on the human body and its need for nurture and protection in a frightening world.

                  Protection often translated into images of shelter or home. A gouged lump of cast bronze, for example, suggested an animal’s lair. A tablelike wooden structure with thin, stiltlike legs resembled a house ever threatening to topple. Her series of “Cells” from the early 1990s — installations of old doors, windows, steel fencing and found objects — were meant to be evocations of her childhood, which she claimed as the psychic source of her art.

                  But it was her images of the body itself, sensual but grotesque, fragmented, often sexually ambiguous, that proved especially memorable. In some cases the body took the abstract form of an upright wooden pole, pierced by a few holes and stuck with nails; in others it appeared as a pair of women’s hands realistically carved in marble and lying, palms open, on a massive stone base.

                  Louise Bourgeois - Nature StudyAmong her most familiar sculptures was the much-exhibited “Nature Study” (1984), a headless sphinx with powerful claws and multiple breasts. Perhaps the most provocative was “Fillette” (1968), a large, detached latex phallus. Ms. Bourgeois can be seen carrying this object, nonchalantly tucked under one arm, in a portrait by the photographer Robert Mapplethorpe taken for the catalog of her 1982 retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art. (In the catalog, the Mapplethorpe picture is cropped to show only the artist’s smiling face.)

                  That retrospective brought Ms. Bourgeois, in her early 70s, the critical and popular acclaim that had long eluded her. In 1993 she represented the United States in the Venice Biennale. In an art world where women had been treated as second-class citizens and were discouraged from dealing with overtly sexual subject matter, she quickly assumed an emblematic presence. Her work was read by many as an assertive feminist statement, her career as an example of perseverance in the face of neglect.

                  Ms. Bourgeois often spoke of pain as the subject of her art, and fear: fear of the grip of the past, of the uncertainty of the future, of loss in the present.

                  “The subject of pain is the business I am in,” she said. “To give meaning and shape to frustration and suffering.” She added: “The existence of pain cannot be denied. I propose no remedies or excuses.” Yet it was her gift for universalizing her interior life as a complex spectrum of sensations that made her art so affecting.

                  Louise Bourgeois was born on Dec. 25, 1911, on the Left Bank of Paris, the second of three children born to Louis and Josephine Bourgeois. Her parents, financially comfortable, owned a gallery that dealt primarily in antique tapestries. A few years after her birth the family moved out of Paris and set up a workshop for tapestry restoration in Choisy-le-Roi. Ms. Bourgeois remembered as a child drawing fragments of missing images to help in the repairs.

                  Ms. Bourgeois often spoke of her early, emotionally conflicted family life as formative. Her practical and affectionate mother, who was an invalid, was a positive influence. Her father’s domineering disposition, as well as his marital infidelities (he had a 10-year affair with the children’s English governess), instilled a resentment and an insecurity that Ms. Bourgeois never laid to rest.

                  Her nightmarish tableau of 1974, “The Destruction of the Father,” for example, is a table in a stagily lighted recess, which holds an arrangement of breastlike bumps, phallic protuberances and other biomorphic shapes in soft-looking latex that suggest the sacrificial evisceration of a body, the whole surrounded by big, crude mammillary forms. Ms. Bourgeois has suggested as the tableau’s inspiration a fantasy from childhood in which a pompous father, whose presence deadens the dinner hour night after night, is pulled onto the table by other family members, dismembered and gobbled up.

                  Louise Bourgeois - Maman

                  Similarly, for a 1994 exhibition titled “Louise Bourgeois: Locus of Memory, Works 1982-1993,” she created a single sculpture and suite of drawings in which the central image was a spider, a creature she associated with her mother, a woman of ever-changing moods.

                  Drawn in orange and flesh-pink gouache, it here stalked across the page and there shrunk to the size of a pea. As an immense sculpture of soldered metal tubing, it loomed ominously over the viewer but was delicate enough to quiver and sway at a touch. Fragility and fierceness were, in fact, the twin poles of Ms. Bourgeois’s art.

                  Often there was a precise association in her work. After she had created a number of vertical spirals that seemed to twist in space, she evoked childhood memories of the tapestry business and her family: “When a tapestry had to be washed in the river, it took four people to hoist it out and twist it. Twisting is very important for me. When I dreamt of getting rid of the mistress, it was by twisting her neck.”

                  At the age of 20, she entered the Sorbonne to study mathematics and geometry, disciplines that she valued for their stability. “I got peace of mind,” she later said, “only through the study of rules nobody could change.” But she left to enroll in a succession of art schools, and counted Fernand Léger among her teachers.

                  In 1938 she married Robert Goldwater, an American art historian noted for his pioneering work in the field then referred to as primitive art. They moved to New York City that same year, and Ms. Bourgeois attended the Art Students League, where she studied painting with Vaclav Vytlacil and also produced sculpture and prints.

                  She knew many of the European surrealists then arriving as refugees in New York (she later dismissed them as “smart alecks”), but the artists to whom she felt closest were the American painters who would come to be known as Abstract Expressionists.

                  Ms. Bourgeois had a solo show of paintings in New York in 1945 and her first exhibition of sculpture — an installation of tall, polelike figures that she intended as abstract portraits of family members and friends — four years later at the Peridot Gallery, at which time she gave up painting for good.

                  She enjoyed some professional success as a sculptor thereafter (she participated in the Whitney Museum of American Art’s Annual Exhibition almost yearly until 1962). But a significant shift in her career came in 1966, when she was included in an exhibition at the Fischbach Gallery in New York, “Eccentric Abstraction,” organized by the critic Lucy Lippard.

                  Ms. Bourgeois’s long involvement in the nascent feminist movement, about which she had passionate but ambivalent feelings, began at this time. In the following year she made her first of many trips to the marble works in Carrara and Pietrasanta, Italy, where she produced dozens of major marble pieces over several years.

                  After her husband’s death in 1973, she began teaching at the School of Visual Arts and elsewhere, including Columbia University, Cooper Union, New York Studio School and Yale University, which awarded her an honorary Doctor of Fine Arts degree in 1977. She also received an honorary doctorate from Pratt Institute in Brooklyn in 1993.

                  By the mid-1970s, with shifts in art-world trends, her reputation was steadily growing. Although she had been given only four one-woman shows in 30 years after her debut as a sculptor in 1949, from 1978 to 1981 she had five in New York alone. Her retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art the following year, the first retrospective of a woman at the museum, secured her place as an influential figure. Her reputation grew even stronger in the context of the body-centered art of the ’90s, with its emphasis on sexuality, vulnerability and mortality.

                  Ms. Bourgeois’s first European retrospective was organized by the Kunstverein in Frankfurt in 1989. In 1993 she was chosen to represent the United States at the Venice Biennale. Her exhibition, organized by Charlotta Kotik of the Brooklyn Museum of Art and titled “Louise Bourgeois: The Locus of Memory, Works 1982-1993,” later traveled to the Brooklyn and to the Corcoran Gallery of Art in Washington.

                  A second international retrospective was organized by the Tate Modern in London and the Centre Pompidou in Paris in 2007 and traveled to New York, Los Angeles and Washington the following year. The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte/Reina Sofia in Madrid and the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg mounted retrospectives.

                  She also was included in four Whitney Biennials, the first in 1973 and the most recent in 1997, and a number of major international shows, including Documenta and the Carnegie International.

                  A survey of her prints was organized by the Modern in 1994, and a survey of her drawings by the University Art Museum at the University of California, Berkeley, in 1995. At her death, two films about her had been completed. She was represented by Cheim & Read Gallery in Chelsea.

                  Ms. Bourgeois was named Officer of the Order of Arts and Letters by the French minister of culture in 1983. Other honors included the Grand Prix National de Sculpture from the French government in 1991; the National Medal of Arts, presented to her by President Bill Clinton in 1997; the first lifetime achievement award from the International Sculpture Center in Washington; and election as a fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences.

                  Certainly her personal style contributed to her mystique. Petite in size, gruff of voice and manner, outspoken but suspicious of interviewers, she spent much of her time either in her home in the Chelsea section of Manhattan or in her studio in Brooklyn, where she worked with Jerry Gorovoy, her assistant since 1980.

                  Ms Bourgeois is survived by two sons, Jean-Louis, of Manhattan, and Alain, of Brooklyn; two grandchildren; and a great granddaughter. Her son Michel died in 1990.

                  A lifelong insomniac, she often stayed up drawing or writing in her journal, in the same plain, epigrammatic style in which she spoke. (Her writings and interviews were published under the title “Destruction of the Father/Reconstruction of the Father” by the MIT Press in 1998).

                  “I have a religious temperament,” Ms. Bourgeois, a professed atheist, said about the emotional and spiritual energy that she poured into her work. “I have not been educated to use it. I’m afraid of power. It makes me nervous. In real life, I identify with the victim. That’s why I went into art.”

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                    31

                    05 2010

                    Five More Artworks Taken in Second French Heist

                    JUST DAYS after celebrated paintings by Picasso and Matisse were stolen in one of the biggest art heists in French history, it has emerged that a further five works – including a Picasso lithograph – have been taken from the home of a private collector in southern France.

                    In the latest theft, judicial police said two men managed to get past security gates at a private home in Marseille on Friday. They then knocked on the door and beat up the owner before making away with five pictures. The most important work taken was reportedly a lithograph representing a woman’s face painted by Picasso, but the estimated value of the stolen pieces have not been made public.

                    Meanwhile, officials at Paris city hall have begun their own investigation into the theft of five masterpieces worth almost [euro]100 million from the Musee d’Art Moderne in the capital last week after confirming that the alarm system had been “partially malfunctioning” since late March.

                    Christophe Girard, a deputy to Paris mayor Bertrand Delanoe with responsibility for culture, confirmed yesterday that the alarm fault had been reported in March but that the museum was still awaiting delivery of a replacement part when the heist was carried out on Thursday morning.

                    Surveillance cameras show a lone intruder entering through a window at about 4am before carefully removing five paintings by Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Leger and Braque and leaving undetected. Although there were three security guards in the building at the time, it was reportedly not until after 6am that staff noticed a smashed window pane and a sawn padlock.

                    In an interview with the Journal du Dimanchenewspaper, Mr Girard said those responsible had acted “with precision, speed and sophistication”, while the movements of the individual captured on CCTV footage suggested he or she was aware of the placement of cameras in the building.

                    Interpol has alerted its 188 member countries about the Paris theft after French authorities asked for its help in tracking down the stolen paintings.

                    “The French authorities have made sure that police around the world now have the information they need to assist in locating and eventually recovering these stolen works of art,” Interpol’s Jean- Michel Louboutin said. “These extraordinary paintings by these great masters are so recognisable that they will be difficult to sell.”

                    Experts have suggested criminal gangs trying to extort money from the museum or state, or who trade the works in the underworld for drugs or weapons, could be behind last week’s robberies.

                    Originally published by RUADHAN Mac CORMAIC in Paris.

                    See article source here

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                      27

                      05 2010

                      Brilliant Designer Alexander McQueen Found Dead

                      Alexander McQueenBrilliant and controversial British fashion designer Alexander McQueen was found dead in his London home Thursday after anguished Internet postings that revealed his deep sorrow at the death of his mother. He was 40 years old.

                      The circumstances pointed to a possible suicide but there was no official confirmation from police or McQueen’s publicists. Police said the death was not suspicious, apparently ruling out foul play, and did not give any immediate indication of how the death was discovered.

                      The Sun tabloid on Thursday cited an anonymous source on its website who said an ambulance was called at 10 a.m. and workers found McQueen hanging in his apartment. The newspaper gave no further details.

                      McQueen’s sudden death robbed the fashion scene of one of its most innovative and successful young designers. His clothes were sexy and distinctive, dramatic and different, perfect for red-carpet presentations and late night rock gatherings.

                      He made his name first in London, then wooed audiences in Paris, New York and Milan to take his place in the upper echelons of the design world.

                      Yet recently posted comments on his Twitter page showed that McQueen was distraught over the Feb. 2 death of his mother. He said he wanted his mother to rest in peace “but life must go on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”

                      Using an obscenity, he added that he had had an “awful week” and said he had to “some how pull myself together and finish.”

                      Little was immediately known about the circumstances surrounding his death, which came as the fashion elite was gathered in New York for a series of catwalk shows.

                      A presentation of McQueen’s secondary label, McQ, had been scheduled for Thursday’s opening day of New York Fashion Week. McQueen had never been expected at the show, which was quickly canceled.

                      Acclaim and honors came pouring for the talented, bearded man favored by celebrities like Madonna, Lady Gaga and Naomi Campbell and named British Fashion Designer of the Year four times.

                      McQueen was also responsible for designing the infamous costume that came apart during Janet Jackson’s Super Bowl appearance in one of history’s most noted “wardrobe malfunctions.”

                      Despite the accolades, McQueen clung tenaciously to his privacy, turning down most interview requests and shying away from the post-show limelight other designers craved. He was the youngest of six children born to a taxi driver and a teacher, his representatives in New York said.

                      Known for his dramatic statement pieces and impeccable tailoring, he helped raise the profile of British fashion and was recognized by Queen Elizabeth II in 2003 when she made him a Commander of the British Empire for his fashion leadership.

                      His pieces were coveted and treasured by stylish women across the globe.

                      “McQueen influenced a whole generation of designers. His brilliant imagination knew no bounds as he conjured up collection after collection of extraordinary designs,” said Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue.

                      Hal Rubenstein, a fashion director for InStyle magazine said McQueen started out tough and angry — in his work and attitude — but softened over time as he felt more appreciated by the industry.

                      McQueen, he said, was a master of integration of technology into fashion.

                      “He changed the way so many of us see shows,” Rubenstein said.

                      Vivienne Westwood, perhaps Britain’s most revered designer, said she was “incredibly sorry” to hear of McQueen’s death.

                      The designer received his early fashion training at the Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design, long recognized for its fashion-forward approach and encouragement of Britain’s talented young designers.

                      He learned the finer points of traditional men’s tailoring at two famous, conservative Savile Row houses: Anderson and Sheppard and also Gieves and Hawkes.

                      “He was 16 when he came here,” said John Hitchcock of Anderson and Sheppard. “He was a boy from Essex, he wanted to learn tailoring. He was a little bit different — he was very ambitious.”

                      He said McQueen’s success had inspired the next generation of designers.

                      After his Savile Row stint, McQueen started to develop his trademark, more theatrical designs, working with several other brands before first starting his own label in 1992.

                      He quickly earned a reputation for innovation that lasted until his death. His last name soon entered the fashion lexicon and become synonymous with new and cutting edge.

                      The company he founded was purchased by the Gucci Group, and he retained creative control of his own brand.

                      His runway shows — more often like performance pieces because they were so dramatic, and sometimes, bizarre — were always a highlight during the Paris ready-to-wear fashion week.

                      One of his previous collections included a show built around the concept of recycling, with models donning extravagant headwear made out of trash. His last collection, shown in October in Paris, featured elaborate and highly structured cocktail dresses. Critics raved.

                      His edgy creations have been seen on numerous red carpets, worn by A-list actresses, including Sandra Bullock and Cameron Diaz.

                      Lady Gaga recently made waves when she wore McQueen’s spring 2010 lobster-claw shoes in her “Bad Romance” music video.

                      McQueen’s death came days before London Fashion Week, an event McQueen had skipped in recent years.

                      ___

                      Associated Press Writers Raphael G. Satter and Sylvia Hui in London, Jenny Barchfield in Paris and Samantha Critchell in New York contributed to this report.

                      (see original post here)

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                        11

                        02 2010

                        A Handy Guide to Fashion Week’s Live Streams

                        Fashion Week kicks off tomorrow, and although the tents are notoriously tight (even celebrities can’t guarantee seats this year), the amateur sartorialists among us can watch the runways in real time thanks to a wave of tech-equipped labels. An expanded lineup of designers are live-streaming their shows this season, including Calvin Klein, Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, Lacoste, and more (even QVC is going live).

                        Mercedes Benz Fashion WeekWe’ve compiled a list of streamed shows so far — check back for updates as the week progresses…

                        • Ports 1961: 3 p.m. on Thursday, February 11, at Vogue.com.
                        • Lacoste: 10:30 a.m. on Saturday, February 13, at the Lacoste Facebook page.
                        • Alexander Wang: 5 p.m. on Saturday, February 13, at ShowStudio.com.
                        • Marc Bouwer: 9 a.m. on Sunday, February 14, at MarcBouwer.com.
                        • Calvin Klein Men’s: 2 p.m. on Sunday, February 14, at CalvinKleinInc.com or the Calvin Klein Facebook page.
                        • Marc Jacobs: 8 p.m. on Monday, February 15, at MarcJacobs.com.
                        • Rodarte: 12 p.m. on Tuesday, February 16, at ShowStudio.com.
                        • G-Star Raw: 7 p.m. on Tuesday, February 16, at G-star.com.
                        • Calvin Klein Women’s: 3 p.m. on Thursday, February 18, at CalvinKleinInc.com or the Calvin Klein Facebook page.

                         

                        (read the original post here)

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                          10

                          02 2010

                          NYC Fashion Incubator

                          We have a few more tidbits of information on Mayor Bloomberg’s much anticipated Fashion Incubator initiative. We gave you the full scoop on this project here when it was announced back in October. The CFDA along with the New York City Economic Cooperation and our Mayor, have created this program to support emerging designers. We love the idea of creating a place that is literally an incubator of creativity. Plus, it’s set up in a way that not only encourages the entrepreneurial spirit, but backs it up with concrete support systems.

                          More specifically, this program will financially aid up-and-coming designers who want to stay in the Garment Center and produce their goods locally. Twelve lucky designers (and we made it clear in our previous post how we felt about that skimpy number) will get some much coveted studio space in the heart of the Garment Center. The Fashion Incubator will be our neighbor, located at 209 West 38th Street. So, what’s the unbelievably low rent at this location? Amazingly, only $1500 a month, which is a dream come true for any young designer. But it gets even better; the CFDA has just announced that they will also be providing mentoring to the Fashion Incubator designers. Having a top American designer as a mentor is a priceless advantage.

                          Of course, this kind of award is not available to just anyone with good fashion sense and a dream. This is a huge economic and political investment for the city and the CFDA. This is a business proposal and not a Project Runway type contest, so designers must have a solid work history. To qualify, the designers need to have sustained their businesses for a minimum of 1.5 years, achieved media coverage, and worked with successful retailers as well as have a record of employing employees. For the right candidate this is an excellent opportunity. Hopefully these twelve designers will prove successful enough, that the program will continue and expand so more candidates of various levels can participate.

                          (view original source here)

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                            11

                            01 2010