FASHION INDUSTRY DICTIONARY

Define Weave Types.

Fabrics made from yarns that are woven on a loom can be constructed in various ways. Lengthwise or warp yarns are placed on the loom first, and crosswise or weft (also called filling) yarns are interlaced with the warps. There are 3 basic weaves: plain weave, twill weave, & satin weave. In the plain weave, yarns in the first row of the weft cross over one warp yarn, under one, over one, etc., across the width of the fabric. In the second row, the weft passed under the first warp, over the second, under the third, etc. The third row follows the same pattern as the first. This is the simplest weave. By varying the kinds of yarns used, color of yarns, and size of yarns, many different fabrics can be produced. If several rows of weft yarns cross over several rows of warp yarns at a time, a variation of the plain weave called the basket weave can be made. In the twill weave, weft yarns interlace with warp yarns in a specified regular pattern. The resulting fabric has a diagonal line (called a wale) on the surface. For the satin weave, weft yarns float over then interlace with warp yarns in patterns that do not produce a diagonal line. By using loosely twisted filament fibers with high luster, the characteristic sheen of satin fabrics is produced. More complicated patterns produced on special looms, such as the dobby or jacquard, utilize combinations of the basic weaves to achieve very decorative fabrics.